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Gaew Mae Pan trail : I have only ever walked part of this trail, but it appears to have potential as it winds through some moist and interesting forest. This trail is high enough up the mountain for most of the summit specialities to be present and a number of Flycatchers were present on the only occasion I have been on the trail, with Vivid Niltava the most notable. However, it seems that it is now impossible to walk this trail without hiring a guide for 200 baht. Apparently it is impossible to dodge these guides and as this trail is not one of the best on the mountain it is wise to avoid it. It seems a massive imposition that having paid 400 baht to get into the park one must pay even more just to walk on this trail!

2 Chedis : These two modern chedis are in an open area which can provide some great views over the surrounding countryside on a clear day. Green-tailed Sunbird is common here, feeding on nectar in the ornamental gardens and often one can get very close to this species here. Buff-throated Warbler often puts in an appearance in the scrubby areas behind the left-hand chedi as one enters the area, and is one of the most attractive Phylloscopus warblers in my opinion.

A damp patch of forest behind the toilets here seems very productive for flycatchers, particuclarly Niltavas and I've also seen Snowy-browed and White-gorgetted Flycatchers here. Hanging around the toilets with a pair of binoculars can draw a few stares however. A fee of 20 baht must be paid to enter this area which I'd like to think goes towards the upkeep of the chedis but is much more likely to fill the pockets of high ranking park officials.

Km 34.5 Trail : This trail consists of a jeep track which splits into 2 branches after about 1 kilometre. It passes through some useful forest, with a few damp gulleys to explore in which I have seen White-tailed Robin, Rufous-bellied Niltava, White-gorgetted Flycatcher, White-necked Laughingthrush and Black-eared Shrike Babbler, before emerging into secondary vegeatation where birds such as Rusty-cheeked Scimitar Babbler, Silver-eared Mesia and Hill Prinia can be found; the bamboo in this area is a good place to spot Black-throated Parrotbill. This should be enough to whet your appetite and encourage you to explore this trail which certainly receives fewer birders than the jeep trali at Km 37.5. I have been told that this trail is also good for spotlighting Mountain Scops Owl; it's bell-like call will be easily heard to help you find it!

Mr Daeng's : Mr Daeng has a beautiful collection of bird photographs and an informative birding logbook. However, the real reason to stop here is for the birds that turn up at the stakeout behind his restaurant; dark-sided Thrush, Lesser Shortwing and Siberian Blue Robin are often seen and Hill Blue Flycatcher and even Bronze-winged Jacana turn up! There is little to see in the wet season though. Birds such as Little Spiderhunter, Grey-breasted Prinia and Olive-backed Sunbird can be found in the garden.

Campsite : The target species for most people here is Black-tailed Crake which seems to put in an appearance an hour or two before dark. Sit on the slope near the marshy patch here to give yourself a view of as many open patches between the long grass as possible so as to spot it when it crosses these areas. If you are lucky enough to get a clear view this bird is very handsome indeed. Unfortunately I have been told that this small marsh has become very overgrown and a tape is a necessity to lure the crake into a viewable situation. Mountain Scops Owl calls from the campsite at night so spotlighting here might be rewarding.

A short walk up the road through some farmland brings one to a small orchard where Daurian Redstart has occasionally turned up. Many other open-country birds can be seen along here, including Grey Bushchat, Siberian Stonechat, Pied Bushchat and Green Bee-eater.

Siriphum Waterfall : This waterfall can be accessed by following the road to the campsite and turning left when the school is to one's right. Follow the signs to the base of the falls. This is a good place for River Chat and Plumbeous Redstart as are other waterfalls on Doi Inthanon; this one is much less often visited by birders however. There is a trail which follows an irrigiation channel which can produce some nice birds, but beware of the slippery flagstones. I am told that this is a good stake-out for White-headed Bulbul too; be careful to get a good look at them and not to mistake stresemanni or leucothorax subspecies of Black Bulbul for White-headed as they can be quite common in the north.

Km 22 (Siritan) Waterfall : This rather beautiful and large waterfall has a small car park and a trail leading to its viewing platform. This offers a great view of the water pouring over the lip and often provides sightings of River Chat. Grey Wagtail and Blue Whistling Thrush should both be seen and by walking down to the water from the platform Plumbeous Redstarts can be found. When the water is low it is possible to make ones way downstream by climbing along the rocks and this provides an opportunity to see other forest birds.

Km 18: A bridge crosses a stream here and the waterfall viewable to the left as one heads uphill is a reliable spot for Slaty-backed Forktail and Blue Whistling Thrush.

Km 13 : A small parking area leads to a bridge over a stream and then along a trail through the dry forest. This has been a favourite place to look for Rufous-winged Buzzard and White-rumped Falcon over the years although they are by no means assured. Black-headed Woodpecker is an extremely attractive bird which can be found in this region and species such as Chestnut-bellied Nuthatch, Large Cuckooshrike and Golden-fronted Leafbird are likely. A Black-backed Forktail inhabits the stream at the Km 13 parking area and can be seen fairly easily just after dawn. This trail can be punishingly hot during the day and totally devoid of birds; I have had the best luck an hour before dusk, after 5.30pm.

Mae Klang Falls : This area can be worth investigating early in the morning before the heat becomes too much or too many people turn up. Greater Racket-tailed Drongo is very obvious here and I have also seen Banded Kingfisher at this point. On one fortunate occasion the very beautiful Black-headed Woodpecker put in an appearance for me here.

The National Park bungalows at Mae Pan are quite nice and can be rented for as little as 500 baht per night (at least that is what Doug Judell and I were charged) and have the benefit of hot showers. There is a small restaurant here too so there is no need to go hungry (or thirsty as beer is sold here).

At approximately kilometre 26 there is a simple Ecolodge, consisting of several bamboo bungalows which cost 500 baht per night. This is run by a friendly hilltribe family and is located in a peaceful spot. There is no electricity here but gas lamps and candles are provided which lend the place a nice atmosphere in the evenings. There is no food available here though, but there is some reasonable open-country birding in paddies around here.

Other facilities in the park include excellent hot chocolate, tea and coffee at the summit (toilets too); simple food, snacks and drink at the 2 chedis and barbecued chicken and ice-cream at Vatcharitan waterfall. In the rainy season the stalls at Vatcharitan waterfall are usually closed.

By far the nicest accommodation is outside of the national park with the Inthanon Highland Resort (http://www.inthanon-highland.com) being a particularly pleasant place to stay, but perhaps a little expensive at 1200 baht per night. They are used to catering for birdwatchers and will have breakfast ready early in the morning - the food here is also very good. They can be contacted by telephone +66 81 9610361 fax; +66 81 8850926. Sometimes this place gets very busy with birding groups, but there is a pleasant alternative next door; V.S.Inthanon Resort (http://www.vsinthanon.com) which prices itself at 1200 baht per night but this price is negotiable. They can be contacted on +66 83 3225101. The National Park staff will charge visitors the 400 baht entrance fee on a daily basis if staying outside of the park, something which rapidly increases ones expenses.

Nearby Chom Thong has a number of shops and a modern petrol station where most supplies can be found - there is even a small Tesco supermarket now. There is also a cash machine in the town should you run short of money!

Chiang Mai, where most visitors to Doi Inthanon will stay for at least a short period, has lots of excellent places to stay and eat.

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The Jeep Track at Km 37.5, Doi Inthanon - posted 10/08/08

A Rainy Season Birding Trip - posted 09/08/08

Tour of Thailand, 17 January to 6 February 2008 - posted 05/03/08