Visitors since 01/09/06

Hat Laem Pakarang, in Phang Nga province, consists of an undeveloped sandy beach with dead coral flats that are exposed at low tide. Palm trees line the beach and inland there are coconut plantations, lagoons and scrubland, making this quite a lonely place at times and ideal for getting away from the tourists.

Whilst this is not exactly one of Thailand's prime birdwatching destinations, it does allow for a morning or afternoon's birding if on holiday with non-birding companions in the nearby Khao Lak or Phuket. As with many wader sites it is best to visit Laem Pakarang at high tide when the birds have congregated on their high-tide roost; on the beach and a small island of dead coral rubble.

Roosting Terns and Waders are the main, and most reliable, attraction at Laem Pakarang, with Greater Crested and Black-naped the most notable Tern species. Interestingly, the subspecies albifrons of Little Tern can be found here and it seems may have been mistaken for Saunder's Tern by some observers; a species which has been removed from the Thai list.

Most of the commonly seen waders form part of the roost here with the handsome Terek Sandpiper usually occurring in good numbers. Both Lesser and Greater Sand Plover can be found here and this provides the opportunity to compare the two and, as with other coastal sites in the south of Thailand, both Brahminy Kite and White-bellied Sea Eagle can be seen here.

Laem Pakarang is easy to get to as it is close to the tourist area of Khao Lak. If staying in Khao Lak it is possible to hire a motorcycle and drive the short distance to Laem Pakarang, about 13 kilometres. From Phuket, it would be possible to drive a hire car for the day, but it would be a bit far by motor scooter.

To get to Khao Lak from Phuket by bus is a simple affair from the main bus station, any bus to Bangkok, Takua Pa or Ranong will pass it. From Krabi buses to Ranong pass Khao Lak or if coming from Surat Thani, buses to Phuket via Takua Pa leave every hour and pass the turning for Laem Pakarang. It is possible to flag down these buses on the main road if travelling from Khao Sok to Laem Pakarang. Buses from Bangkok mostly go to Surat Thani and then towards Phang Nga and Phuket, which is a quick and comfortable route, but then it is necessary to get oneself to Laem Pakarang. Some buses from Bangkok to Phuket go via Ranong and stop at Khao Lak. This takes a long and uncomfortable route over the Western mountains and I would not recommend this. Probably the most comfortable (but not the quickest) route to Laem Pakarang from Bangkok (other than flying to Phuket) is to take an overnight train to Surat Thani and then take a minibus to Khao Lak; these minibuses can be found at a number of places in Surat, the most convenient being at the bus station.

High-tide Roost : This is where the main ornithological interest lies at Laem Pakarang and where various Terns and Waders can be seen roosting. Great-crested, Black-naped and Little Terns are usually present and Bridled Tern is sometimes spotted out to sea. Most of Thailand's commoner waders turn up at this roost with Common Greenshank and Lesser Sand Plover numerous and good numbers of Terek Sandpiper. Nordmann's Greenshank was recorded here once in 1994, perhaps with more visits it will be recorded again. Kentish Plover is an attractive bird that is often present here and Grey-tailed Tattler is an exciting bird to look out for; there are a few records, with late Spring usually being the best time for this species in Thailand. Chinese Egret has been reported from this location on numerous occasions and Indian Pond Heron at least once!

Bee-eater Roost : "100s" of Chestnut-headed Bee-eaters gather here before dusk to roost making it easy to study this extremely attractive and quite vocal species. It is a good bet that Collared Kingfisher could turn up in this vicinity too.

At the the Cape itself, facilities are non-existent. However, at the turn-off from the main road there are a few food stalls which would be a good place to either stop and eat or order something to take away and eat at the beach, with another place 1 kilometre along the road. In terms of accommodation there are a few bungalows and "resorts" around the Cape which would seem out-of-the-way places to be, or a few kilometres south on the main highway is the tourist area of Khao Lak; Khao Lak Hotel reservations. It would be pointless to recommend anywhere as everything was flattened by the tsunami in 2004 but will be back to full trading by now. For independent travellers it is worth trying to stay in small, family owned accommodation rather than one of the hotels owned by wealthy chains in order to help the local people who have had such a hard time here.

Southern Thailand, 22-31st August 2008

by Nick Upton