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Khao Soi Dao Wildlife Sanctuary
 Introduction

Stream, Khao Soi Dao
(Photo by Vincent van der Spek)
 

Khao Soi Dao Wildlife Sanctuary is part of the highest mountain range in south-eastern Thailand and forms a large wilderness area with the adjacent Khao Kitchakut National Park. As part of the Cardomom mountains, much of the avifauna found here is more closely related to that found in Cambodia than that of the rest of Thailand. Indeed, a few species can only be found in this region and a number of subspecies are unique to this area also.

Khao Soi Dao is in one of the wettest regions of the country and the lush forest found here is quite spectacular with one of the most picturesque waterfalls of any location in Thailand, with fabulous views over the rainforest from the top. This is a good place to go birding before or after a relaxing visit to the nearby Ko Chang, and an opportunity to get to an area of excellent habitat which is rarely visited by groups of birders. This wildlife sanctuary has a reasonable park infrastructure and a few good trails which give bird watchers the opportunity to find some very seldom seen species.

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 Birding Highlights

Blue-rumped Pitta would have to be the pick of all the species occurring at Khao Soi Dao and indeed, in Thailand this species is restricted to this wildlife sanctuary and its immediate surroundings. Black-browed Fulvetta is another bird which is restricted to this part of Thailand as is the lewisi subspecies of Silver Pheasant.

Khao Soi Dai seems to be a consistently good place to see Needletails with White-throated Needletail recorded here fairly often, even though it is the rarest of Thailand's Needletail species. The secretive Malayan Night Heron is another bird which seems to pop up at Khao Soi Dao more often than it does in other places and a sighting of this species alone would be reason enough to visit the sanctuary. The quality of the forest at Khao Soi Dao is such that a very large number of forest species can be found. Pompadour Pigeon can sometimes be seen near headquarters and this is also a good place to get close views of Violet Cuckoo, Asian Barred Owlet and Dusky Broadbill. 

 
Black-throated Sunbird
(Photo by Alister Benn)

Spending time in this Wildlife Sanctuary could reward birders with a long and exciting list of species as well as giving them the opportunity to add to the current checklist.

Click here for a checklist of the birds of Khao Soi Dao Wildlife Sanctuary
 Travel Information
Khao Soi Dao Wildlife Sanctuary
 

Khao Soi Dao is not a difficult place to get to, in fact it is ideal for people using public transport. From Ekamai (Eastern) bus station on Sukhumvit Road in Bangkok take a bus to Chantaburi; this will take from 4 to 5 hours. From the bus station in Chantaburi take any bus going north towards Sa Kaeo. For those driving, this is highway number 317. At the 62nd kilometre marker there is a sign with "Khao Soi Dao Wildlife Sanctuary" written in English. Get off the bus here and walk the 4 kilometres to the Wildife Sanctuary or hitch a lift on a passing vehicle. There are a couple of small shops at this junction and it is probably possible to arrange a lift to the Wildlife Sanctaury Headquarters from one of these. It is also possible (and perhaps advisable) to get off at Patong market and take a motorcycle taxi to the HQ.

About 20 kilometres south of the turning for the HQ is a turning for Khao Soi Dao Dtai (South). Birders can camp here and climb the mountain, but it is not easy to find the trail and I've been told that the HQ and waterfall area is probably a better option for most birders. Details of this location are given in Charles Davies's trip report.

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 Finding Birds
Just hanging around Headquarters will reveal plenty of interesting forest birds with Hill Myna, Pompadour Pigeon, Dusky Broadbill, Banded Broadbill and Large-tailed Nightjar all present on both occasions that I have visited the Wildlife Sanctuary. There are a few trails, however, which will get one further into the forest. 
Road Trail A Waterfall Trail Trail C Trail E
Campsite and bungalows : There is some excellent general birding around the campsite and bungalows where there is a small pond and some damp patches which seem to attract birds. A number of Flycatchers can be seen around here with Verditer Flycatcher often perched atop dead trees and Asian Brown, Yellow-rumped and Taiga (Red-throated) Flycatchers are often to be found in this area. Violet Cuckoo and Dusky Broadbill seem to be unusually frequent around here and the openness of the campsite is an ideal place to look for Needletail Swifts, with all three Thai species possible at various times of the year. A Spot-bellied Eagle Owl territory has been occupied for some time just beyond the HQ clearing in this region; listen for it at dusk, although apparently it can be quiet for long periods.

Little Spiderhunter
(Photo by Albert Noorlander)
 

Road to abandoned foodstall : Early in the morning this road is ideal for birders, although at weekends it can get a little busy later in the day with people heading to the waterfall; the gate is open for cars to use this road between 9am and 4pm. Banded Kingfisher is often heard and seen along this track and Green Pigeons frequently fly overhead. This can be an excellent place in the early morning and sightings of Oriental Pied, Great and Wreathed Hornbills attest to the quality of the forest here. Banded Broadbill and Orange-breasted Trogon are colourful and frequent additions to the trip list along this road and this is also a good place to watch butterflies. Asian Barred Owlet seems to frequent this area too.

Food and drink is no longer available at the old foodstall where the road finishes and the trail begins so it is useful to take breakfast before birding the road and heading onto the waterfall.

Trail A : A small loop which partly follows the river. Before the gate to the waterfall turn right and there is a large birdcage with some pheasants and ducks in it. Before the cage there is a small road to the left, follow this and you will come to a small house. Opposite this house is the entrance to the trail. In the winter this is a nice trail with good flocks of birds including Oriental Pied Hornbill. Orange-headed Thrush and Blue Whistling Thrush both occur along this trail but in the wet season there don't seem to be many birds.

Trail B : This trail is easy to find as the entrance is marked by a bridge. At the start (or end, depending on which side you start) you have to cross a small stream which can be strong during the summer. The halfway point on this trail is a nice viewpoint where raptors including Besra, Crested Serpent Eagle and Rufous-bellied Eagle have been seen. It is also an ideal place to watch for Needletails and Swallows.

Trail C : This long trail can be quite hard to find. Just after the main entrance there are some houses/offices at the left site. Behind the offices, in the left corner, is the entrance to this trail. This trail passes through an enormous tree and along here some good birds have been found including Red-headed Trogon, Orange-breasted Trogon, Silver Pheasant, Banded Kingfisher, Great Eared Nightjar (during daytime!) and Blue Pitta. It ends somewhere on the road to the waterfall.

Waterfall Trail (Trail D) : This takes birders through the forest and up to a wonderful waterfall. It is possible to cross the river at the bottom of the falls and then climb to the top for an excellent view. The forest is good for birds with Blue-rumped Pitta and Silver Pheasant being the specialities to look for. Beyond the waterfall one can climb to the mountain summit and look for Siamese Partridge. In the wet season there can be lots of annoying leeches in the vicinity of the waterfall so it is a good idea to bring leech socks!

Trail E : This trail crosses the river and forks into two long trails through the forest. I haven't explored them fully, but I'm told one eventually ascends Khao Soi Dao Neua and the other eventually emerges at the western boundary of the sanctuary; I followed the trail for about 1 kilometre and saw a flock of Pompadour Pigeons feeding on a fruiting tree.

 Facilities
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The facilities here have apparently been allowed to fall into demise and I am told that bungalows are no longer available. Although the accommodation pictured is still present it does not appear to be available to visitors. For this reason it is advisable to come prepared to camp at Khao Soi Dao. I have always camped here, and to my knowledge it is essential to bring ones' own tent, but the campsite is conveniently placed and even during busy periods is not too crowded. 

A number of foodstalls 200 metres before HQ have a good range of cheap Thai food and a selection of drinks although I am told that the restaurant at the junction with the main road is a more pleasant option. It should also be noted that the foodstall at the end of the road towards the waterfall is no longer present, so make food and water is packed before embarking on this walk.

There are also a number of aviaries around the HQ region containing native species including the local lewisi subspecies of Silver Pheasant.

 
Simple Accommodation
(Photo by Albert Noorlander)
For those needing to stay in Chantaburi, there are a number of fairly decent hotels a short walk from the bus station.
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 Trip Reports

Khao Soi Dao Dtai, 2004 & 2005

Thailand, 31st March - 13th April 2005

 

by Charles Davies

by Vincent Van Der Spek

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