Laem Pakarang, in Phang Nga province, consists of an
undeveloped sandy beach and spit with dead coral flats and
mud that are exposed at low tide. Casuarina pine
and palm trees line the beach and inland there are coconut
plantations, lagoons and scrubland, making this a peaceful
and scenic place with few visitors even though there are large
numbers of tourists nearby at Khao Lak.
The coastal wetlands here are one of the best and most accessible
shorebird watching sites in Southern Thailand, consistently
playing host to a few species that are scarce elsewhere and
while the inland areas are not exactly one of Thailand's prime
birdwatching destinations, it does allow for a good morning
or afternoon's birding if on holiday with non-birding companions
in the nearby tourist areas of Khao Lak or Phuket. In fact
quite a large bird list can be accumulated in this area, and
particularly during migratory times it could turn up a few
surprises.
Laem Pakarang is a useful addition to Southern Thailand birding
itineraries given its proximity to Sri Phang Nga and Khao
Sok National Parks as well as its potential to turn up a rarity
or two.
Waders and Terns are the main, and most reliable, attraction
for birders visiting Laem Pakarang with small numbers of Malaysian
Plovers present all year round. A good selection of waders
can usually be found here in the months late August to mid
April and this is a reliable site for Grey-tailed Tattler
as well as Terek Sandpiper and Ruddy Turnstone while every
now-and-then Crab Plover shows up for lucky observers and
even Beach Thick-knee has been recorded (Beach
Thick-knee in close-up).
Lesser Crested Tern and Black-naped Tern are perhaps the most
notable Tern species that are regularly recorded and Bridled
Tern is sometimes seen out to sea, but plenty of other species
are likely. Interestingly, the subspecies albifrons
of Little Tern can be found here and it seems may have been
mistaken for Saunder's Tern by some observers; a species which
has been removed from the Thai list. In harsh weather at the
right time of year various seabirds are possible, there are
many on the Thai list that have been recorded only a few times
and here is as good a place as any to see one of these from
the mainland.
Brahminy Kite is common here and White-bellied Sea Eagle is
always a magnificent sight while the surrounding plantations
and coastal scrub contain a good selection of commoner open-country
birds.
A checklist of the birds for this location can be found here
- Laem
Pakarang
Bird
Watching Trips:
If you need help organizing a bird watching trip to Thailand,
take a look at the suggested itineraries for ideas on
creating a tailor-made trip and contact me for advice:
Thailand
bird tours.
Travel Information
Use the interactive map below to plan your route to
Laem Pakarang. The blue line shows the route from Phuket Airport
(A) and Surat Thani Airport (C) to Laem Pakarang (B).
By Car/Motorcycle
Laem Pakarang is easy to get to from the main North/South
highway along the Andaman coast (Route 4). At Kilometre marker
68 there is a turn off towards Laem Pakarang which is signposted
from the main road with a 7/11 store on the corner. The signs
do not give drivers much warning that the turning is being
approached though; from this turning it is just a few kilometres
to the headland. If staying in Khao Lak it is possible
to hire a motorcycle and drive the short distance to Laem
Pakarang, about 13 kilometres. From Phuket, it would be possible
to drive a hire car for the day, but it would be a bit far
by motor scooter.
By Bus
To get to Khao Lak from Phuket by bus is a simple affair from
the main bus station, any bus to Bangkok, Takua Pa or Ranong
will pass it the turn off where you can be asked to be dropped
off. From Krabi buses to Ranong pass Khao Lak or if coming
from Surat Thani, buses to Phuket via Takua Pa leave every
hour and pass the turning for Laem Pakarang. It is possible
to flag down these buses on the main road if you want to join
it along the way from anywhere along the route. It should
be noted that buses from Bangkok to Phuket mostly go to Surat
Thani and then towards Phang Nga and Phuket, which is a quick
and comfortable route, but does not pass Laem Pakarang. Some
buses from Bangkok to Phuket go via Ranong and stop at Khao
Lak, you would need to check that the route goes via Ranong.
By Train
Probably the most comfortable (but not the quickest) route
to Laem Pakarang from Bangkok (other than flying to Phuket)
is to take an overnight train to Surat Thani, from Hua Lompong
station in Bangkok, and then take a minibus to Khao Lak; these
minibuses can be found at the Surat Thani train station which
is actually at Phunpin, 15kms from Surat Thani town.
By Plane
Both Phuket and Surat Thani airports are about a 2 hour drive
from Laem Pakarang. These two airports have many cheap flights
to and from lots of destinations all over Thailand with airlines
Air Asia, Nok Air, Thai Smile, Thai Airways, Orient Thai (Phuket
only), Bangkok Airways (Phuket only), Thai Lion Air &
Vietjet Air (Phuket only). From both Surat Thani and Phuket
airports car rental is available as are private taxi, minivans
and bus transfers.
By Taxi
Any hotel along the Andaman coast will be able to arrange
a taxi to take you to Laem Pakarang but taxis in this area
do not tend to be cheap and it only really makes sense if
you are staying in Khao Lak or nearby. Taxis from Phuket and
Surat Thani will be available to take travelers to Khao Lak
if you are staying there.
Finding Birds
This is really just a case of getting out to the headland
itself and either scanning the flats at low tide for birds
or locating the high-tide roost. In the early morning it is
also worth a look around the surrounding inland countryside
for some of the more common Thai species or passage migrants
at the right time of year.
High-tide
Roost/Mudflats: This is where the main ornithological
interest lies at Laem Pakarang and where various Terns
and Waders can be seen roosting at high tide and feeding at
low tide. Most of Thailand's commoner waders turn up at this
site with good numbers of Terek Sandpiper almost always present
and this is an excellent place to get close to this handsome
wader.
This is also a reliable mid-winter location for Grey-tailed
Tattler with one or two birds usually feeding among the rocky
areas. Malaysian Plover is an increasingly scarce species
which is a resident here in small numbers and between October
and April there are plenty of Lesser and Greater Sand Plovers
present; in late March/early April these birds are stunning
in their breeding plumage. Nordmann's Greenshank has been
recorded here a few times but the star attraction is Crab
Plover which gets seen here sporadically in the months of
December and January. Other common species of wader likely
to be seen here include Common Greenshank, Whimbrel, Eurasian
Curlew and plenty of Ruddy Turnstones but there is always
the chance of something rare showing up.
Chinese Egret has been reported from this location a number
of times while Pacific Reef Egret is a permanent resident.
Chinese, Javan and Indian Pond Herons have all been recorded
here but in non-breeding plumage they are impossible to tell
apart, wait until late March/early April when they come into
breeding plumage.
For those wishing to get photographs of shorebirds this is
a great place to find a spot to sit and wait for feeding birds
to come close.
Coastal
Scrub & Plantations: The inland area consists
of a mosaic of plantations, scrubland, pools and scraps of
woodland and although it is not exactly the habitat that birders
should flock to there is definitely the possibility of building
up a fairly interesting bird list. This is excatly the type
of habitata that a number of Green Pigeons use and early morning/late
afternoon would be the best times of day to encounter one
of these birds. Common Flameback has been recorded here as
have species such as Lanceolated Warbler, Chestnut-headed
Bee-eater, Watercock, Lineated Barbet and Banded Bay Cuckoo.
In late October/early November birders are likely to witness
raptor migration with Black Baza, Oriental Honey-buzzard,
Chinese Sparrowhawk, Japanese Sparrowhawk and Grey-faced Buzzard
being the most common. Birding here in March/April, when many
species are migrating, could be productive too, look out for
Yellow-rumped Flycatcher, Green-backed Flycatcher, Tiger Shrike,
Forest Wagtail and many more, in fact virtually anything could
turn up at this time. Of course this area is a good place
to locate many commoner species including Yellow-vented Bulbul,
Common Iora, Indian Roller, Common Tailorbird, Pacific Swallow,
White-throated Kingfisher, Coppersmith Barbet and suchlike.
At Laem Pakarang itself there are few facilities, although
at the end of the road there is sometimes a small restaurant
that sells good food, soft drinks and even alcohol for those
wanting to sit and enjoy the sunset; this only seems to be
open during the peak tourist season though. There are also
a few hotels a few kilometres back along the road which would
make a quiet and very convenient place to stay for birders;
there are also a few small restaurants in this area, near
the tsunami escape tower (which is perhaps the most important
facility). Close to the junction with the main road there
are a few simple shops to buy snacks and drinks in as well
as a few more small places to stay.
Nearby Khao Lak is an ever-growing tourist centre and has
a large amount of accommodation from the very highest standards
to cheaper places for those on a tight budget. There are a
number of small shops in Khao Lak where provisions can be
purchased and lots of restaurants of all types as well as
fuel stations, ATMs and convenience stores. Those who prefer
a more genuine Thai experience the town of Takua Pa is 30
kilometres north where markets, accommodation, a supermarket,
hospital and ATMs can all be found; the Good
Morning Hotel in Takua Pa is a good, clean and inexpensive
place to stay.
It is also good to know that there are signs all along the
coast in this area detailing evacuation routes as well as
an escape tower should there be another tsunami.
Some Useful Books
Shorebirds:
An Identification Guide to the Waders of the World This is still the most complete guide to shorebirds
with a wide variety of plumages of all species illustrated
both standing and in flight. Packed full of information
this is the book if you want to learn more about this
group of birds..
Waders
of Europe, Asia & North America With beautiful and bright illustrations this is
a true field guide to this group of species that easily
is easily carried while traveling. Not as much information
on the ecology of the birds covered in this book but
much more portable than any other while covering all
aspects of identification.
Birdwatching
Trips:
Laem Pakarang is a good shorebird site and is a great
addition to any Southern Thailand birdwatching itinerary
with the potential to see a few species that are scarce
at other locations around the country; between late October
and early April is the best time to visit.
Shorebirds:
An Identification Guide to the Waders of the World
Terek
Sandpiper & Greater Sand Plover
Download
a full 
