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Introduction
This three-day trip completed my visits to the three “Doi’s” over the last 6 weeks (see previous trip reports on this site for my accounts of Doi Inthanon and Doi Chiang Dao).

Before visiting Doi Angkhang I referred to several trip reports on the Internet, mainly those by Peter Ericsson. Another invaluable resource was Nick Dymond’s detailed map of the area which is available in two places - the logbook at Malee’s at Doi Chiang Dao, and the logbook in the café in the village at Km25 at Doi Angkhang.

Transport and Accommodation
I travelled from Chiang Mai by rented 125cc motorcycle, as I did to the other two “Doi’s”. From Chiang Mai to Doi Angkhang is about 155km which took roughly three hours. It would be quicker by car but not much, as the road is very twisty in places.

Doi Chiang Dao is located at the halfway point between Chiang Mai and Doi Angkhang and many birders combine the two sites in one trip.

The approach road to Doi Angkhang is clearly signposted from route 107, about 16km south of Fang. After a while this road climbs steeply, passing close to the summit of Doi Angkhang mountain before descending to a village, 25km from the junction with route 107.

Most birders stay in the plush Amari Resort on the outskirts of the village at Km25. This was way too expensive for me – despite the place being almost empty, the lowest they would go on price was 1,800 baht per night (about GBP 26). This was lower than any pre-bookable rate I saw on the Internet so if intending to stay there in low season, you will probably do better just showing up and negotiating a price.

Instead I stayed at the Angkhang Hill Resort in the village. They let me have a 500 baht room for 300 baht but it still represented poor value - common to all the “Doi’s”, there appeared to be a distinct lack of budget accommodation. There is another bungalow operation right next door which I didn’t try. Others have stayed in the resort at Ban Luang village, or in the forestry bungalows themselves at Km24.

To really save money the best option is the campground at Km24 (bring your own tent). It was cold, wet and deserted there and I didn’t fancy it!

There are several cheap local restaurants in the village. The one with the bird log is on the second street back, on the corner, with a sign in English reading “foods and drinks”. I also treated myself to dinner at the Amari one night, which although relatively expensive was superb and excellent value considering the high level of service and Western-size portion.

Birding at Doi Angkhang
Of the three “Doi’s” visited, Doi Angkhang provided by far the most challenging birding. I saw only 81 species here, compared to 100 at Doi Inthanon and 109 at Doi Chiang Dao. Of the 81, 14 were exclusive to Doi Angkhang and not seen at either of the other two sites. Birds at Angkhang, particularly the specialities, were scarce, generally wary, and hard to see in the abundance of thick cover.

I was probably not helped by either the time of year or the weather. Being so late in the spring, the birds were not particularly vocal. Some were feeding young and newly fledged juveniles of several species were also observed. The weather over the three days was generally cloudy, with frequent drizzle and occasional heavy rain. Due to the altitude the higher trails were often shrouded in cloud and visibility was very restricted. The exception was the final morning when the sun shone for a time and I was able to observe my first large raptors of the trip.

Another consequence of the abundant recent rainfall was that the vegetation was very lush and several trails were overgrown. I could not find either the Link Trail or the Pipe Trail, presumably for this reason. The Ravine Trail was negotiable only for 100 metres or so before it petered out among shoulder-high plants. Due to the number of leeches already encountered along there I didn’t fancy proceeding any further!

My only major disappointment was missing White-browed Laughingthrush, although there were a few “outside chances” that I also failed to see, for example Red-tailed Laughingthrush and Lesser Rufous-headed Parrotbill. These were compensated at least in part by superb and unexpected views of a pair of Spot-winged Grosbeaks.

Red-faced Liocichla, one of the prime specialities of the area, proved to be extremely hard to connect with. I spent more than 25 hours in the field, including visiting the first clearing on the Km21.5 Birder’s Trail about 10 times, before finally seeing a pair there.

Trails
I made a sketch copy of Nick Dymond’s excellent map of the area (see Introduction), which was very useful. My computer skills are not good enough to reproduce it here!

Briefly, the main birding areas can be accessed from two points. The trail at Km21.5 is signposted “exit from trekking route”, easy to find from the main road.

Approximately 30 metres along here, a path heads right. It passes some mature coniferous trees, then mixed scrub and small patches of broadleaved forest, before arriving at a path junction at the base of the climb to the Doi Angkhang summit. At this point, continue straight ahead for the Summit Trail, or turn left for the Scrub Trail. The Summit Trail emerges on to the main road again just below the Army Camp at Km19.9, where the path is signposted “trekking route”.

The Km21.5 trail arrives at a clearing - the famous “Liocichla clearing” - shortly after the turn-off for the Summit and Scrub Trails. The path then heads downhill and to the left, passing areas of scrub and small patches of forest. This is the Birder’s Trail. After a while it becomes the Ridge Trail, when it joins a firebreak which follows the crest of the ridge. The Ridge Trail climbs to a high point before descending very steeply to a stream and small dam – you have arrived at the far end of the Forestry Trail.

To access the Forestry Trail from the road, continue as far as Km24. Just below the Km24 milestone, there are two roads on the right, at almost the same point. The second road is signposted to some villages and actually goes to the Myanmar border. The first road descends for 100 metres or so before passing a small guard hut (disused). After this hut there is a junction – the left hand track goes to the Forestry HQ bungalows. Take the right hand track and follow the path past the hill tribe houses. Do not descend to the stream valley, stay on the same level. This path soon enters open woodland, then a variety of habitats including scrub, bamboo and damp stream forest. This is the Forestry Trail, which ultimately meets the end of the Ridge Trail at the small dam mentioned above.

Access to the Ravine Trail is halfway along the Forestry Trail, along a narrow path to the right if approaching from the Km24 end. As mentioned above it was seriously overgrown, and may be easier to negotiate in the dry season.

I spent most of my time on the Birder’s Trail at Km21.5, the Ridge Trail, and the Forestry Trail at Km24. I hiked up to the Summit once and walked the Scrub Trail twice but neither produced any species that I did not also see elsewhere. I also spent some time along the road mainly between Km24 and Km20 but once as far as Km15. The best area of all was the vicinity of the first clearing on the Km21.5 Birder’s Trail, and the section of path between here and the bottom of the Summit Trail steps.

Another spot which I found good was the deforested hill behind the dam at the end of the Forestry Trail, opposite the end of the Ridge Trail. Looking down onto the bushes and scrub below produced my only Spot-breasted Parrotbills of the trip.

Most older trip reports mention an old orchard at Km19.9 which used to be very productive for species like Red-tailed Laughingthrush. An Army Camp now occupies this area. You may not feel comfortable using your binoculars here and in any case, most of the habitat appears to have been cut down to make room for the camp.