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Mae Wong National Park, various trips 2004-2006 |
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Introduction Chong Yen campsite, at 1350m, is in an area that used to be inhabited by hill tribes. You can still see signs of terraces on the steep hills, but the cultivated areas are overgrown with tall grass and scrub. There are patches of forest on the drive up, but when you get to the ridgetop at Chong Yen, you are rewarded with a view to the west over almost unbroken mountain forest, and you can even walk into the forest a short way if the trails are clear. |
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Directions You have to buy the park entrance tickets right at the park entrance, but tickets to camp at Chong Yen are sold separately at the park Headquarters. The Headquarters area, including a campsite, cafeteria, visitors centre and administrative offices is a right turn after about another 8km past the park entrance. If you are in a group and staying more than a day, expect to end up with a big stack of paper slips. Once the bureaucracy is done with, you can pass through the entrance gate and drive the final 30km up to Chong Yen. |
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Timing In the wet season, and during weekdays, the place is normally empty. But there should still be a few cars going up the road every day, and there is a reasonable chance you could hitch a ride if you need one. I’ve run into groups of Thai birders a few times at Chong Yen, but don’t recall ever seeing a Western birder there. This is a lush mountain area, and you can get torrential rain during the wet season. Sometimes it lasts all day. In the cold season, it can get chilly at night. Insects are a nuisance all year here. The specialty are “koon”, small round flies with black and yellow stripes. Chong Yen has lots, and, if it is a quiet time for other visitors, you will find yourself to be the only banana in the supermarket. Koon bore a small round hole into your arm or neck and can go about their business for a while without you noticing them at the time. But their efforts create small, bloody welts that can later become quite itchy:insect repellant, mosquito nets. Other predators include plenty of tiny “no-see-ums” (smaller than the koon), stripy green leeches (especially in wet season), which would be quite attractive under other circumstances, and, of course, mosquitos. |
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Equipment A machete might be useful, because the trails are often overgrown with briars. One of those electric “tennis rackets” comes in very handy for dealing with the koon. Pop pop pop. |
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| Etiquette The rangers will always appreciate you coming in to say hi. Many are interested in birds, and/or may suggest you take one of them along for safety reasons if you are on your own. They once managed to fix my car very effectively after steam started coming out of the hood half way up the mountain. |
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Paths Another trail leaves from the left side of the rangers’ bungalows; it goes downhill more steeply through the forest interior. I have heard these trails may join up at a waterfall, a few km down the mountain, but I’ve never got this far. (I will call this “forest trail”) The last part of the access road can also be good for birds. It is mostly through open grass and scrub, but there are a couple of large forested gullies in the last couple of km before Chong Yen, and the final steep section up to the campsite is on the edge of the forest. (I will call this “access road”). |
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Birds
and mammals Burmese Yuhina – Chong Yen is one of the few accessible spots in Thailand for this bird. It normally inhabits even higher altitudes, but none of the roads in Thailand go this high. One of the other spots is supposedly about 50km before Umphang on the Mae-Sot Umphang road. It is very close to Mae Wong as the crow flies, but is a much longer drive from Bangkok, since you have to get there via Mae Sot and a long windy road south of the town. I think the altitude is slightly lower than at Chong Yen. I have only seen a pair of Burmese Yuhina once at Chong Yen. Striated Yuhina are common here in canopy here, and can look like Burmese Yuhina on poor views. I hear that Burmese Yuhina are commoner at the summit of Doi Mokoju in Mae Wong National Park, at an altitude of nearly 2000m. This is a two-day hike in each direction, and starts from Mae Wong HQ. It needs to be done near the end of the wet season or in the early part of the cool season, when the streams are full, but seems to be a popular trek that can be organized quite routinely at this time of year (although you might need to book the porters and guides in advance). Hornbills – Chong Yen is also the best-known site in Thailand for Rufous-necked Hornbill. Groups (sometimes quite large) turn up sporadically at Chong Yen, but they are more regular near the end of the wet season (normally August and September) since I hear there are many fruiting forest lychees in the area of the campsite. The only time I got good numbers (groups of 15-20 flying over and perched) was during a trip in July 2005. There are often a couple of Great Hornbill around Chong Yen, and I once saw three Wreathed Hornbill on the drive up. Pittas and broadbills – There are a few calling Rusty-naped Pitta around Chong Yen. I’ve had them maddeningly close on a number of occasions, calling from the ground seemingly only a few metres away, but they’ve never responded to playback, just calling invisibly for a minutes before vanishing. I’ve also heard Blue Pitta occasionally at Chong Yen. Blue-winged Pitta inhabits the lower areas of the park in the wet season, and is the only species I’ve actually seen here. Long-tailed Broadbill is fairly common around Chong Yen, and I’ve heard Silver-breasted Broadbill a few times. Pheasants and partridges – Bar-backed and Rufous-throated Partridges are both common near Chong Yen. I once saw a group of three Kalij Pheasant in fairly unattractive-looking habitat about 10km past the park Headquarters on the drive up. In the dry season, you can hear Gray Peacock-Pheasant calling from the gully below Chong Yen. There are millions of babblers around Chong Yen, including many species that are scarce in the rest of Thailand. These include White-browed, Red-billed and Coral-billed Scimitar-babblers, White-necked, Black-throated and Chestnut-capped Laughingthrushes, Long-tailed Sibia, Silver-eared Mesia, Streaked and Eyebrowed Wren-Babblers, Grey-throated, Golden, Spot-necked and Buff-breasted Babbler, Chestnut-fronted and White-browed Shrike-Babblers, Blue-winged Minla, White-hooded Babbler, Burmese, White-bellied and Striated Yuhinas. The Umphang trail is good for some interesting birds that like hanging out near small rivulets, like Rufous-browed Flycatcher, White-crowned Forktail, White-tailed Robin, Small Niltava, and (I suppose) the Rusty-naped Pitta. Orange-headed Thrush is present in the wet season. I once saw Dark-sided Thrush a short way below Chong Yen, and have heard Green Cochoa right at the campsite. Large mammals are fairly thin on the ground, but I’ve seen a troupe of Stump-tailed Macaques immediately below Chong Yen, a group of Red Muntjac quietly crossing the Umphang trail (unlike Khao Yai, they don’t walk around on the lawns here!). Phayre’s Langur can often be heard calling. One interesting mammal sighting I had here was of Stripe-backed Weasel. The few previous Thai records were from north-east Thailand, but I had one practically step on my foot after going a short way off-trail down the “Umphang trail”. It seemed to be attracted by my shiny, metallic minidisk player (which I’d just put down on the ground after using – unsuccessfully – to try to attract a nearby calling a Rusty-naped Pitta). The weasel came up and sniffed it a couple of times, made a noise a bit like a fairly high pitched human sneeze, then casually wandered off. The forest near Headquarters is quite dry, with lots of bamboo and a small area of dipterocarp just past headquarters. The stream right by the Headquarters is supposed to be a good spot for Crested Kingfisher (flying along the stream at dawn and dusk) although I’ve never seen it. |
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| Charles Davies | ||
| Birds seen at Mae Wong | ||
| Chinese
Pond-Heron – Around Headquarters Striated Heron – On the stream by Headquarters Black-shouldered Kite – Once at Chong Yen Crested Serpent-Eagle – Fairly common Shikra – One a few km past Headquarters Kalij Pheasant – Once a group of three at dusk on the road up to Chong Yen, about 10km past HQ Red Junglefowl – Quite common, especially in the grass and scrubland, including one sighting of an eclipse male Grey Peacock-Pheasant – Can be heard from the gully below Chong Yen Rufous-throated Partridge – Frequently heard and two seen around Chong Yen Bar-backed Partridge – Frequently heard and seen several times around Chong Yen Green pigeon sp. – Sometimes heard Mountain Imperial Pigeon – Common around Chong Yen (sometimes abundant) Barred Cuckoo-Dove – One seen and a few heard Emerald Dove – Sometimes flushed from the road up to Chong Yen Vernal Hanging-Parrot – A flyover once at Chong Yen Greater Coucal – Common in the grass and scrub, and by the side of the road up to Chong Yen Green-billed Malkoha – Common in forest and scrub at all altitudes Mountain Scops-Owl – Several around Chong Yen (e.g., final gully on the access road) Collared Scops-Owl – One calling often from the hillside immediately above the campsite Asian Barred Owlet – Heard once at a lower elevation Collared Owlet – Heard most days Brown Wood-Owl – Once heard just below Chong Yen Large-tailed Nightjar – Common on the roads at lower elevations Indochinese Swiftlet – Groups can sometimes be seen hawking over grassy areas in the wet season Asian Palm-Swift – These turn up at all elevations in the park Banded Kingfisher – Once heard from the middle section of the road between HQ and Chong Yen White-throated Kingfisher – Sometimes common on the road between HQ and Chong Yen, on the road in grassland areas, or by streams in lower areas Red-headed Trogon – Heard once at Chong Yen Chestnut-headed Bee-eater – A group of these sometimes appears around Chong Yen campsite Blue-bearded Bee-eater – A pair of these were breeding in the mud bank by the side of the road on the final ascent to Chong Yen, and could often be seen sitting in the trees in this area Indian Roller – Common in grassland and scrubland Rufous-necked Hornbill – Sporadic at Chong Yen campsite, I head they are most often present in August and September (although my only large groups were in July 2005) Wreathed Hornbill – 3 seen flying over the road to Chong Yen (about 10km before the campsite) Great Hornbill – One or two often around Chong Yen Great Barbet – Common around Chong Yen Lineated Barbet – Heard at lower elevations Golden-throated Barbet – Abundant around Chong Yen Blue-throated Barbet – Sometimes heard or seen at Chong Yen Speckled Piculet – Common (a few seen almost every visit) White-browed Piculet – Quite common (seen most visits) Greater Flameback – A couple seen lower down the access road Greater Yellownape – A few around Chong Yen Lesser Yellownape – Seen twice (once 15km before Chong Yen) Bay Woodpecker – Often heard and sometimes seen around Chong Yen Stripe-breasted Woodpecker – Probably the commonest woodpecker at Chong Yen Silver-breasted Broadbill – Groups sometimes heard around Chong Yen Long-tailed Broadbill – Fairly common (seen on about half of the visits) Rusty-naped Pitta – Seemingly quite common, at least 4 calling birds in the gullies below Chong Yen, but I never managed to see it Blue Pitta – One or two heard around Chong Yen Blue-winged Pitta – Heard and easily seen along the access road, just past headquarters Asian House-Martin – About 10 birds seen once at Chong Yen Forest Wagtail – 2 seen Grey Wagtail – Once abundant (late July 2005) Bar-winged Flycatcher-shrike – Frequent in mixed flocks, especially in the lower regions of the park Black-winged Cuckoo-shrike – Sometimes in mixed flocks at Chong Yen (all my records were in the winter) Grey-chinned Minivet – Common around Chong Yen Scarlet Minivet – Common around Chong Yen Orange-bellied Leafbird – Common around Chong Yen Black-crested Bulbul – Common in the lower regions of the park Black-headed Bulbul – Seen twice at Chong Yen Red-whiskered Bulbul – A few seen in grassland areas Sooty-headed Bulbul – Seen once near Headquarters Flavescent Bulbul – Abundant in the grassland around Chong Yen, and even in small areas of grass along the Umphang trail Olive Bulbul – Once seen in a fruiting tree along the access road just below Chong Yen (at about 1300m). Heard sometimes in the lower regions of the park. Ashy Bulbul – Frequent, a couple once seen only a short way past Headquarters Mountain Bulbul – Sometimes abundant at Chong Yen Black Bulbul – Groups of these sometimes turn up in the more open forest areas (e.g., final gullies along the access road, or open areas along the Umphang trail) Ashy Drongo – Common around Chong Yen Bronzed Drongo – The most common drongo around Chong Yen and also at lower altitudes Spangled Drongo – 2 seen near Chong Yen (April 2006) Lesser Racket-tailed Drongo – Common at Chong Yen Greater Racket-tailed Drongo – Sometimes seen in lower regions of the park |
Maroon
Oriole – Chong Yen is a good
site for this, and all the birds I have seen here were males Grey Treepie – Quite common around Chong Yen, and even in quite small patches of forest along the upper part of the access road Green Magpie – Often heard and sometimes seen at lower elevations Yellow-cheeked Tit – Fairly common around Chong Yen (although not seen on every trip) Velvet-fronted Nuthatch – Fairly common around Chong Yen (although not seen on every trip) Puff-throated Babbler – Common (by voice) in the lower regions of the park Buff-breasted Babbler – Common around Chong Yen, and a few heard right down to Headquarters. White-browed Scimitar-babbler – Common around Chong Yen, seen on every visit Red-billed Scimitar-babbler – Uncommon around Chong Yen (only two groups in several visits, one flock including White-hooded Babbler) Coral-billed Scimitar-babbler – Uncommon around Chong Yen Streaked Wren-Babbler – A few groups recorded, twice in the final gully along the access road, once along the Umphang trail Rufous-fronted Babbler – Seen in lower areas of the park Golden Babbler – Common around Chong Yen Grey-throated Babbler – Common around Chong Yen Spot-necked Babbler – Uncommon at Chong Yen, although 5 seen on my last visit in June 2006. One pair seemed to be nesting in the banana grove right as the access road enters Chong Yen campsite. Striped Tit-Babbler – Common at elevations Greater Necklaced Laughingthrush – A group (with Green Magpies) seen once in the lowlands, about 5 km past Headquarters White-necked Laughingthrush – Noisy groups are almost always calling around Chong Yen, probably one of the best sites in Thailand for this bird Black-throated Laughingthrush – A few in the bushes immediately around Chong Yen campsite Chestnut-crowned Laughingthrush – Fairly common around Chong Yen, but very secretive (unlike those at the summit of Doi Inthanon) Grey-cheeked Fulvetta – Abundant in forest around Chong Yen Brown-cheeked Fulvetta – A few heard at lower elevations in the park Striated Yuhina – Flocks in the treetops around Chong Yen on most visits Burmese Yuhina – Only one pair seen, near the top of the “Umphang Trail” in April 2006 White-bellied Yuhina – Seen once at Chong Yen Chestnut-fronted Shrike-Babbler – A few seen around Chong Yen White-fronted Shrike-Babbler – Fairly common around Chong Yen, a few seen on almost every visit Blue-winged Minla – A few seen Silver-eared Mesia – Common around Chong Yen White-hooded Babbler – One seen in the banana grove at the entrance to Chong Yen campsite (in a flock of Red-billed Scimitar-babblers) Black-headed Sibia – A few heard around Chong Yen Long-tailed Sibia – A few groups seen along the access road to Chong Yen (especially in the final gully) Dark-necked Tailorbird – Seen once about 10km past park Headquarters Yellow-bellied Warbler – A few seen along the lower sections of the road up to Chong Yen Radde’s Warbler – Fairly common in winter Blyth’s Leaf-Warbler – A few seen well around Chong Yen in winter, but difficult to separate from White-tailed White-tailed Warbler – Common at Chong Yen, normally in mixed flocks with fantails, gray-headed flycatcher etc Yellow-browed Warbler – Common in winter, especially around park Headquarters Rufescent Prinia – Common in grassy and scrubby areas along the access road, especially at lower elevations Hill Prinia – A few in grassy areas just downhill from Chong Yen Slaty-bellied Tesia – Around small streams near Chong Yen (Umphang and forest trails) Oriental Magpie-Robin – Common in grassy and scrubby areas along the access road White-rumped Shama – Common in secondary forest at lower elevations White-tailed Robin – A few down the Umphang trail White-crowned Forktail – Commonly seen along roads and trails during the wet season Green Cochoa – Heard (April 2006) around Chong Yen campsite, and near a fruiting tree a short way down the Umphang trail Pied Bushchat – Common in grassy areas along the access road Blue Whistling-Thrush – Sometimes appears at Chong Yen (both races) Orange-headed Thrush – A pair seen in June 2006 in the final gully before Chong Yen, so presumably this species breeds in the area Dark-sided Thrush – Once seen running along the access road during a period of very heavy rain, in the penultimate gully before Chong Yen. Taiga Flycatcher – Common in winter Rufous-browed Flycatcher – A few down the Umphang trail Grey-headed Flycatcher – Abundant around Chong Yen Small Niltava – Seen almost every visit, especially down the Umphang trail Verditer Flycatcher – Often in the treetops around Chong Yen White-browed Fantail – Common around Chong Yen Black-naped Monarch – Common at lower elevations Ashy Woodswallow – Around Headquarters Brown Shrike – Common in winter in grassy areas, including at Chong Yen Hill Myna – A couple on top of a dead tree, about 5km past HQ Black-throated Sunbird – Common around Chong Yen Little Spiderhunter – A few around Chong Yen and at lower elevations Streaked Spiderhunter – Abundant around Chong Yen Buff-bellied Flowerpecker – A few around Chong Yen Thick-billed Flowerpecker – A pair once in dry forest a few km past Headquarters Chestnut-flanked White-eye – Common in winter around Chong Yen, including in the trees above the picnic tables Oriental White-eye – Common around Chong Yen White-rumped Munia – Small groups seen a couple of times in the grassland |
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| Charles Davies can be contacted at daviesc@un.org | ||
| Click for more information on Mae Wong | Birdwatching Tours | |
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