Summary and general impressions
After some years of hoping to bird Thailand, the opportunity presented itself. In December, 2006, the principal and unavoidable factors of time and affordability combined with the unexpected; sudden personal freedom after a heart wrenching break up which also provided the impetus to get out of Dodge for a bit. In this case, Dodge was Normal, Illinois, a pleasant enough place but dark and especially dreary this winter so leaving it for sunny Thailand with its myriads of new birds provided a wonderful welcome change of scenery. I had hoped to travel over the holidays but flights after the first week of January were at least half the price of fares during the holidays. So, I bought a round trip ticket from Chicago to Bangkok, 1/11-1/29 for $978 US and before I knew it, I was on my way.

Daily log

1/11-12 : I arrived late on the 12th in Bangkok, exchanged money and got a taxi to Soi Kasem 1, off of Sukhumvit Road. Best deal for taxis is to pay for the fare at the airport- follow the signs to the taxi service (named that or something along those lines) instead of bargaining with individual drivers in the airport. There are several guest houses and small hotels on this quiet street strategically located near the skytrain (nice public rail transport good for avoiding quite bad Bangkok traffic). Here as elsewhere during this trip, most hotels were full!- especially those mentioned in the Lonely Planet guide. If you can, I strongly recommend making reservations in advance: Bangkok Hotel Reservations. Nevertheless I found a room here at a sizable hotel on the corner for $18. Room was acceptable but nothing to speak of. The hotel did have a 24 restaurant though- nice to be able to eat breakfast at 4:30 AM before birding at dawn.

1/13 : Muang Boran fish ponds-see map with directions at Muang Boran Fishponds. I arranged a ride to the Muang Boran fishponds with a taxi at 5AM. With little traffic, we got there in about an hour. Make sure the taxi takes you to the first cement bridge over the canal on the left after the Chinese warehouse- this is an obvious, large Chinese structure located after the entrance to the Muang Boran park- you don’t want to go to the park itself!

At the bridge, there are mototaxis that can take you to the second mototaxi stop (perhaps show them the map from Thaibirding.com). If walking (or driving) from the bridge, continue straight past several food stalls with large apartment buildings on the left. Take a left where the large apartment buildings end. Stay on this road, following it when it makes a 90 degree turn to the right. At this point it passes an empty lot on the right with a marshy area behind a fence on the left. Follow this until a mototaxi stop is reached- several guys with motorcycles should be hanging out here. Take a right here! Go to end of road, there is a small wooden plank or bridge on the left. Cross this and you will be on the main track into the fishponds. There are small stores along this road where drinks, etc. can be bought. Be careful of the sun and bring water while birding the fishponds.

The fishponds were pretty good for marsh birds, Reed Warblers and open country stuff. This was a great place for my first morning birding in Asia and many of these species I saw only at this site. Common Koels were calling all over the place. At dawn, many birds became active and they were all new! This place was especially good for Rails and skulking marsh birds- I saw several White-browed Crakes, one Ruddy-breasted Crake, a few Watercocks, White-breasted Waterhen, Cinnamon and Yellow Bitterns, and more. I saw no Kingfishers here. Be aware that locals still hunt birds here as well. I heard some shooting and ran into two guys who were trapping Waterhens.

After a morning of very satisfying birding, I got a taxi to the closest skytrain terminal (On Nut), got back to my hotel, had lunch and was off to Lumphini Park. Despite it being 1PM, the birding was pretty good for common stuff and the park very pleasant. Good spot to hit for a few hours- would be especially nice in the morning. This place was especially good for seeing Coppersmith Barbet.

After the park, I had to get back out to the airport for my evening flight to Krabi in the south. Flew One Two Go! Airways- bought my ticket online before leaving the States. Arrived Krabi 9:30P.M. Either bats or nightjars were catching bugs by the lights of the airport. Shared a taxi into town and met up with Gail Schacter with whom I had previously communicated with about birding together. After some delicious curried noodles at the waterfront, I slept soundly until 5:30AM.

1/14 : Thanks to Gail for booking a mangrove boat trip with Mr. Dai through the Chan Phen travel agency, we were off around 7AM into the nearby mangroves. I think we paid $35 for a 4-5 hour boat ride. Despite Mr. Dai’s concerted efforts to whistle in Mangrove Pitta and Mangrove Blue Fly, we dipped on those and saw few birds overall. This may have been due to it being low tide. Mr Dai said Feb. was better for these as well as Ruddy Kingfisher. Nevertheless, we saw some cool birds and the scenery was beautiful. This was especially good for Kingfishers with good looks at several Brown-winged, Black-capped, Collared and Common Kingfishers. Our best bird was probably Oriental Hobby - pair at the limestone outcropping. Chan Phen travel Agency was very helpful for this trip and other things-. Ask for Mr. Dong- he speaks English and was very good to us.

After lunch we taxied it to the Morakot resort located just outside of KNC. Trip takes about an hour and few birds are seen in the landscape converted to rubber tree and oil palm plantations. Most birders visiting KNC stay at the Morakot and with good reason. KNC is only 800 meters up the road, birding at the Morakot is not bad (especially around riparian growth in back that sometimes has Red and Black Broadbill), and the women who run the place are very sweet and accommodating. They usually know where some birds are and can take you to the entrance to a track leading to a Spotted Wood Owl roost. Bungalows are also clean and comfortable with two bottles of drinking water provided daily. Their restaurant is also good with breakfast available at 5:30AM. Check their birdlog for latest Gurney’s Pitta sightings.

Upon arrival, we birded the pond in the back for the rest of the afternoon seeing several Bulbuls, Flowerpeckers, Sunbirds and beautiful Blue-eared Kingfisher as our best species. The grounds were especially good for Purple-throated Sunbird and the tiny Orange-bellied Flowerpecker. We tried a bit of owling down the road getting close to but not seeing Collared Scops Owl.

1/15 : Breakfast at 5:30AM and our first bird was Great-eared Nightjar flying around above the trees and calling. We had these every morning here- they are really big! At dawn we waited at the entrance to KNC to see birds at the edge of the forest which ended up being in vain for there was almost nothing! We then made our way into the reserve, found a gulley off of B detailed in the logbook and waited and watched for the star of KNC; Gurney’s Pitta. Interesting sounding birds called here and there nearby, nothing came in to imitations, and no Gurney’s was heard nor seen after two hours. Birding along the B trail, I managed to get a few species out of a quickly moving mixed flock that was mostly hidden by the foliage. Further up B is excellent primary forest. By the time we got there, things were pretty quiet and we saw nothing. After lunch at the restaurant just outside of the KNC entrance, we walked the boardwalk through peat forest to the crystal pool along with several other non-birding visitors. Once again almost no birds. Walking back along the A trail/road we had Yellow-bellied Warbler in the bamboo. We tried the U trail later on in the afternoon, waiting at gulleys there but no sign of Gurney’s. I did manage to whistle in a Moustached Hawk Cuckoo though. Thank goodness! A bird and a good one at that responding and showing well! We heard a few of these during our stay at KNC along the B trail as well.

1/16 : Another 5:30AM breakfast and we were off to the U trail. Lots of gulley waiting to no avail but a few other birds here and there. Pretty sure I heard Red-bearded Bee-eater near the start of the U trail but could not find them. We walked back along the n(?) and q(?) trails to the main road. There was some bird activity along here but birds were very tough to see in the secondary forest. Best sp. was probably Puff-backed Bulbul of which we saw several. Walking back along the road I also had Raffles Malkoha with a mixed flock.

After lunch, we birded the main road past the U trail, hitting the intersection with the H trail. There was some nice forest here with a few birds- best was Whiskered Treeswift. Would probably be good in the morning.

1/17 : We heard that on the previous day, another guy had seen Gurney’s at the first gulley on B just after dawn. So, along with a German birder named Benedict, we quietly watched the gulley for an hour after dawn without luck, then spent some time over at the gulley off the B trail from our first day. No Gurney’s but did get Red-billed Malkoha here. After lunch we headed back to Krabi for some estuary birding.

So, no Gurney’s this time- not even heard and not so much else seen either. I would visit here again to get Gurney’s probably hiring Yothin for the day, but would visit Malaysia for the other Sundaic species possible here.

In Krabi we got a boat guy to take us to the river mouth for a few hours. I think we paid about $20. It was low tide so shorebirds were scattered and thus not ideal conditions but was still good. Although we couldn’t find Nordmann’s Greenshank, we got Chinese Egret and saw lots of other shorebirds including lots of Terek Sandpiper, both Sand Plovers (mostly Lessers), and several Bar-tailed Godwits. Also got one Greater crested Tern and saw several Brahminy Kites.

Flew back to Bangkok that evening and stayed at a youth hostel in Sukhumvit. It was somewhat loud and not so great.

1/18 : Managed to communicate with a taxi driver that we wanted to hire him for the morning to take us to the Khok Kham salt pans near Samut Sakhorn for about $35. Following the directions from Thaibirding.com, despite feeling lost, we were on track and made it to Mr. Tiis birding Center. Although he wasn’t there, the salt pans were close by and we didn’t have far to drive before we found some birds. Shorebirding here was great! We were very lucky to get on Spoon-billed Sandpiper almost right away! It was just about the first bird we saw with excellent looks at the bill. After momentarily scanning through some of the other birds present, we tried to find the Spoon-billed again to no avail and never saw one again for the rest of the day! Considering ourselves very fortunate, Gail and I enjoyed watching a good variety of other palearctic shorebirds with Marsh Sandpiper being especially common. There were also lots of Black-winged Stilts, Common Greenshank, Red-necked and Temminck’s Stint and a few Curlew Sandpipers! I was very pleased to get this one as I had always missed it as a vagrant in North America. We also had loads of Yellow Wagtails here and several Herons flying overheard amongst other birds. Before we left, flocks of hundreds of Shorebirds were flying by, most of them Plover species.

Our next stop was Khao Yai. We had the taxi drop us at the bus terminal and bought tickets to Chom Thong. Bus was very comfortable for the 2 hour ride, picking up Asian open-billed Stork and Red-collared Dove along the way. After lunch in Chom Thong, we got on the Saengthaew for Khao Yai. A Saengthaew is a very common form of public transport in Thailand in the form of a converted truck with seating similar to that found in army troop transports. They charge very little and stop often. The one in Chom Thong for Khao Yai leaves from the north side of the main road through town road near a pedestrian bridge 500 meters (?) west of the bus stop from Bangkok.

Gail got off at the Green Leaf guest house and I continued on to the entrance of the park. Although it’s best to have ones own transport for this big park, if you like to walk a lot and hitch rides, you can do it on your own. I hitched a couple of rides to get to the Pha Kluay Mai campground picking up Oriental Pied Hornbill along the way from the back of a pickup. Although I brought my own tent, you can rent tents here as well as ground mats and sleeping bags. It’s nice during the week but during the weekend, it gets very crowded with barely room to set up a tent. Rental might cost $10 while camping costs $1-$2. There is also a restaurant here serving tasty, cheap food and also offers up views of good birds and animals out back. It’s amazing. One can sit at a table sipping a cold soda while watching a Coral-billed Ground Cuckoo, Orange-headed Thrush or other nice bird. The first bird I saw here was the Ground Cuckoo. Nothing like starting and ending the day with two excellent species; Spoon-billed Sand and Coral-billed Ground Cuckoo. Over the next few days, I repeatedly saw two Ground Cuckoos here, Orange-headed Thrush, Siberian Blue Robin, and Red Jungle Fowl as well as macaques, Sambar deer and a huge 2 meter long Water Monitor. It pays to keep checking into the forest here with bins as the birds can often be hidden back in the shade of the understory.

1/19 : Like most of my mornings at Khao Yai, I started birding pre dawn hearing 4 species of Owls. These were Collared Owlet, Collared and Mountain Scops Owls and Brown Hawk Owl. I had these every morning along the road that heads from the campground towards the HQ. Collared Scop I had in trees at the campground, especially near the start of the waterfall trail. Despite many attempts I never saw any of these Owls! At least Great Eared Nightjar was easy to see as it flew over the campground every night.

My first morning was particularly good with many lifers. I started at the top of the incline along the road towards the HQ, birding towards the campground with much of my time spent watching a couple of fruiting figs. I had good looks at 3 sp. of Barbets, several Oriental Pied Hornbills, Thick-billed Pigeons, several Asian Fairy Bluebirds, a few Bulbul species, Blue-winged Leafbirds, Scarlet Minivets, Mountain Imperial Pigeon, and more. One of my best birds was a female Banded Kingfisher whistled in at the top of the incline. In voice, looks and behavior, it reminded me somewhat of Barred Puffbird from the Choco bioregion.

After a productive couple of hours at the fig trees, I ate a quick breakfast at the restaurant, seeing two Ground Cuckoos in the process then headed up the waterfall trail. Birding was somewhat slow but fine with the type of mixed flock I became very familiar with at Khao Yai containing Swinhoes, Rosy and Scarlet Minivets, Bar-winged Flycatcher Shrikes, many White-bellied Yuhinas and Phylloscopus species, Chestnut-flanked White eye, Gray-headed Canary Flycatcher, Ashy Drongo, Black-winged Cuckooshrike, and several noisy and ever present Puff-throated and Black-crested Bulbuls. Along the stream, Gray Wagtails were more regular than Slaty backed Forktails which were very shy. Also had a few Great Hornbills in flight along this trail and eventually made it to the waterfall (kind of a long walk while birding). During lunch at the waterfall restaurant, I met a local guide with a client from Philadelphia. They were very helpful with bird gen. and gave me a ride back to the visitors center. The prize at the visitors center was seeding bamboo near the river that held at least four Pin-tailed Parrotfinches amongst the many White-rumped Munias. There was also a snag near the bamboo used by Greater Flamebacks! Along the river I had my first of many Taiga Flycatchers; once I learned the short dry trilling sound they made, I realized how common they were just about everywhere I went. That afternoon, I walked a bit of the B trail hoping for Pheasants. The B trail (as it is named on Thaibirding.com, the trail to Wang Jumpee at Khao Yai) is steep in some spots but not too bad. Had Red-headed Trogon near the start of the trail, Abbott’s Babbler, and good mixed flocks before turning back to hitch back to the campground.

1/20 : Birded some of the waterfall trail from the campsite this morning, best birds being Large Scimitar Babbler in bamboo, Red-headed Trogon, Hodgson’s Hawk Cuckoo, Great Hornbill and Shikra from the top of the waterfall- one can walk out onto nearly the top of the waterfall (be careful!) in the dry season to scan the canopy of the surrounding forest. Things were fairly quiet by the time I did this- it might be pretty good in the morning. On the way back, a guy named Gordon showed me a Blue-bearded Bee-eater. Ended up being my only one for the trip- thanks Gordon!

For the afternoon, I hit the B trail again but was foiled in my attempt at Pheasants and Pittas by a huge group of loud Thai students.

1/21 : This morning, I walked to the other campground seeing quite a few birds there with best being Rufous Woodpecker and another H. Hawk Cuckoo. Here I met a Thai birder and with a couple friends of his drove over to the B trail. We did the loop from the visitors center to the mo sing reservoir but no dice with Pheasants nor Pittas although we traversed some excellent habitat. We had much mixed flock activity and good looks at Hill Blue Flycatchers, Orange-headed Thrush, White-rumped Shama, and then White-crested and Lesser-necklaced Laughthrushes in the second growth as we descended towards the reservoir.

After an iced coffee and lunch, I walked along the main road towards the watchtower, taking my time in the midday heat. Saw some good stuff along the way such as Emerald Dove, Yellow-vented Flowerpecker, then several Red-whiskered Bulbuls in a flowering tree at the parking area for the watchtower. Heading to the watchtower paid off with looks at a pair of Wreathed Hornbills but not much else although it’s probably really good early in the morning. The watchtower is located in an open grassy area with views of a pond and nearby forest- a scope is necessary here.

On my way back, I picked up Scaly-breasted Partridge at the Wang Jumpee trail.

1/22 : For my last morning at Khao Yai, I decided to give the Pheasants and Pittas along trail B another try. Once again I started predawn on the road near the campground hearing but not seeing 4 Owl species. In the mist of dawn, though, I saw a huge (what other size do they come in) bull Asian Elephant exit the forest about 70 meters up the road. No longer feeling like walking to the second campground, I quickly walked back to my campground and hitched a ride to the HQ which is about 3 ks from the reservoir. My luck was especially good for mammals this morning with good looks at Asian Golden Cat at this spot and White-handed Gibbon in forest along the road (heard many of these daily). Birding along the road was pretty good- managed to spish up Bright-headed Cisticola and my only Siberian Rubythroat of the trip along the way. Birding the B trail from the reservoir was good with much activity but no new birds. At the visitors center an early lunch was heightened by adult Rufous-bellied Eagle and Crested Goshawk soaring overhead.

Checked out the waterfall trail behind the visitors center for a bit without much success in the heat of the afternoon, then hitched back to my campground.

Managed to then eventually catch a ride to Prachin Buri. This is a city on the south side of Khao Yai definitely located off the tourist trail. The road through Khao Yai to Prachin Buri passes through a lot of wild habitat with no one although a fair bit of the forest looked secondary in nature.

I spent the rest of the afternoon travelling from P.B. to Bangkok then on to Chiang Mai by overnight bus. The bus was fairly comfortable and cost probably about $16.

1/23 : I arrived Chiang Mai about 6AM, meeting with Gail for breakfast then we were off to the Huay Krong Krai royal project for Green Peafowl. This is located within an hours drive north of Chiang Mai on the road to Chiang Rai- the entrance is well signed and on the right side of the road. The Peafowl are located in the “zoo” which is composed of several outdoor cages holding a small variety of native birds and mammals. We saw a few wild Green Peafowl hanging out near the caged ones and had some other good birds too. I would have liked to have birded this site early in the morning as there was a lot of deciduous forest here (not sure at what time the place opens, it is also possible to camp). The dam provided a good vantage point for looking into the canopy as well as for scanning the skies; we had good looks at soaring Rufous-winged Buzzard, Black Baza, and Crested Serpent Eagle here. Along a nature trail here we had Asian barred Owlet, Hainan Blue and Tickell’s Blue Flycatchers, H. Hawk Cuckoo, White-runped Shama and other birds. Overall a really cool spot with many visiting Thai tourists. I would love to spend the whole day or camp out here sometime.

Much of the rest of the day was spent making travel arrangements in Chiang Mai, then heading over to Chong Thom- the gateway to Doi Inthanon. Chong Thom is located about 2 hours from Chiang Mai by bus and has almost no available accomodation. There were two guesthouses that were full and despite language barriers I eventually somehow managed to get a room on the main road across from the wat here with help from friendly locals.

1/24 : Hired a taxi predawn to take me to the K13 area of Doi Inthanon (DI from now on) for deciduous forest birding. Things were fairly quiet at dawn but picked up some good birds such as Blue Whistling Thrush, Blue-throated Fly, Red-billed Blue Magpie, a mixed flock of G.R. tailed Drongo, Green Magpie, and Laughingthrushes. Also managed to get Black-headed Woodpecker (Yes!) but missed White-rumped Falconet. While scanning for the Falconet, picked up my only Collared Falconets of the trip, saw Rufous-winged Buzzard, and also a nice flock of Chestnut-tailed Starlings.

Eventually hitched a ride uphill with a friendly Hmong guy. He taught me how to say hello in Hmong. It’s something like “Ngyaow Jhong”. He dropped me near the famous birding center of Mr. Daeng who did thankfully have accommodation. He has two rooms; one for each Cochoa found in Thailand. I stayed in the Purple which did not, however, give me any luck finding it. He has special rates for birders- take note that these are very basic rooms. Mr. Daeng was friendly and helpful with birding info. and also showed me Dark-sided Thrush that visited the outflow from his kitchen. Also had good looks at Sib. Blue Robin here. Collared and Mountain Scops Owls called each night- managed to get a fleeting glimpse at Collared Scops Owl.

I spent the afternoon walking uphill, then hitching a ride to checkpoint two for excellent birding along the main road. It was especially good at two ravines maybe 500 meters after the checkpoint. There was a quite a bit of mixed flock activity even though it was the afternoon and I saw quite a few of the expected mountain specialties. Best or at least favorite bird was probably Silver-eared Mesia.

1/25 : Gail and I had arranged for a car with driver today. We started our birding at the summit boardwalk. Things were pretty quiet with Ashy-throated Warblers, Rufous-winged Fulvettas and Chestnut-tailed Minlas providing most of the activity. We managed to see Green-tailed and beautiful Mrs. Gould’s Sunbird and Rufous-throated Partridge, but no Shortwings, nor Snowy-browed Fly.

Picked up Ashy Wood Pigeon perched in a roadside tree on our way down to the food stalls next to the nature trail entrance. Only bird behind the kitchen was Blue Whistling Thrush.

Birding the 37k Jeep track, we had Golden-throated Barbet on a snag and Spectacled Barwing at the start, and some mixed flock activity inside with best bird being Golden Babbler amongst the many Gray-cheeked Fulvettas.

We briefly stopped at the 34.5k track and picked up Mountain Tailorbird and Chestnut-fronted Shrike Babbler, also seeing White-browed Shrike Babbler (pretty common on DI).

A stop at Siriphum falls got us White-capped and Plumbeous Redstarts with many Chestnut-flanked White-eyes in the trees. A brief stop at the campground (which looked very nice) yielded lots of Common Rosefinches and Great Tits but not much else. Black-tailed Crake hasn’t been seen a couple of years here.

Got in a bit of birding across the road from Mr. Daeng’s before dark seeing Pied Bushchat, Olive-backed Pipit and Gray-backed Shrike amongst others.

1/26 : My last morning at DI was mostly spent at the 37k jeep track (located just after 2nd checkpoint, entrance not so obvious). Although there were many intriguing birds calling and the forest beautiful, I didn’t see much that was new. Best birds were Red-headed Trogon, Slaty-bellied Tesia, Gray-throated Babbler and Maroon Oriole high up in the canopy.

A walk down the 34.5 k track got me Long-tailed Minivet in a nice mixed flock where the pines started.

I spent the afternoon travelling back to Chiang Mai where I spent the night hearing Asian Barred Owlet in the Taipae gate area.

1/27 : I bussed it to Chiang Dao (first bus leaves 5:30AM), hiring a mototaxi to take me the rest of the 5ks to Mallee’s Nature Lovers bungalows. I arrived here about 7AM and promptly began birding the surrounding area from the rooftop. It was great birding with lots of birds easier to see than other places in Thailand. Of the places I visited, I would spend more time in the Doi Chiang Dao area as this was probably my best birding overall. While seated on the roof I got good looks at Great, Blue-throated and Coppersmith Barbets, many Himalayan Swiflets, Orange-fronted Leafbirds, Asian Fairy Bluebirds, a few Bulbuls, Purple, Crimson, Olive-backed and Black-throated Sunbirds, and many other species. Malee’s roof provided good digiscoping opps as well.

I spent most of the rest of this day birding the nature trail, the temple steps and briefly checked out the gulley trail. The nature trail was pretty steep in spots, passing through broadleaved forest, eventually reaching an area with lots of bamboo. No Pittas but did see Gray-throated Babbler in the first gulley, then had Greater Yellownape and Green Magpies with Greater-necklaced Laughingthrush along the trail. Also managed to take care of my permit for the following day.

1/28 : Through Malee I hired a pickup and driver for about $50 to take me up to the Den Ya kat substation on Doi Chiang Dao. You get the car and driver from 5AM until 5PM and have to arrange this at least a day in advance. You also have to get the permit at least a day in advance- get in from the forestry office (open until 4PM)- from Malee’s up the road towards the temple taking a right on an uphill road. It costs 250 baht.

We made it to the Giant Nuthatch site at dawn; a fairly cold dawn it was too so be prepared- cold enough for a sweater and light jacket or fleece. The driver knew some of the spots for the Nuthatch and the Pheasant and was at times a bit over eager to point out birds but was friendly. The spot we tried for the Nuthatch was past the checkpoint at a spot along the road where there were tall pines including some tall snags. First bird seen was the Giant Nuthatch!- one calling to another from the top of a snag. It gave an abrupt piping call. Predawn, we heard Collared Owlet, Mountain Scops Owl and probably Hodgson’s Frogmouth here. Birding was very good along this road in excellent pine and broadleaved forest with grassy understory. Dipped on the Pheasant but great birding nonetheless highlights being Long-tailed and Silver-breasted Broadbills in broadleaved forest. In a gulley between the Nuthatch site and the checkpoint, I saw Rufous-bellied Niltava, Large Cuckooshrike, and got excellent looks at a Blue Pitta!- was especially pleased with this as I had given up on Pittas this trip. I saw it because I scanned the gulley with my bins. Never would have seen it otherwise as it was quiet and inactive.

In the understory, had a good look at Rusty-cheeked and White-browed S-Babblers. These were travelling with White-hooded Babblers,G.R-t Drongo and Eur. Jays. Also had brief looks at Russet Bush Warbler and mixed flocks with many Gray-headed Parrotbills.

The area around the DYK substation had flocks of Olive-backed Pipits, Chestnut Buntings, Gray-backed Shrike, Gray Bushchat, Mountain Imperial Pigeon, and Slaty-backed Flycatcher at the start of the trail. Along the trail, there was good mixed flock activity- one huge flock had at least 15 species (including pair of Giant Nuthatch) and must have held 70 birds at least. All flocks of small birds in the mountains appeared to be led by Lesser R-T Drongo,Velvet-fronted Nuthatch was very common here.

The road below the checkpoint also goes through good habitat- had good mixed flocks near the village as well with loads of birds in flowering trees- lots of Bulbuls and Drongos, especially Black Bulbul. Heard a Few Forktails along the stream but didn’t get looks at them. In a level area of the road that passed through nice Dipterocarp forest with bamboo understory, had Pin-tailed Parrotfinches in seeding bamboo. Also had Silver-breasted Broadbill and Pin-tailed Green Pigeon here. Would probably be worth it to bird the lower part of the road for a morning as well.

As has been mentioned in other reports, the road definitely requires four-wheel drive (or dirtbike would be fine).

1/29 : For my last morning birding in Thailand, I did the gulley trail and temple steps. Gulley was slow but got good looks at Asian Stubtail, White-crowned Forktail and Buff-throated Babbler. Had good mixed flocks on the steps with many Brown-cheeked Fulvettas and eventually wonderful Speckled Piculet! Area behind the monk’s kitchen had Black-throated Laughingthrush and nice male Sib. Blue Robin hanging out near the outflow from the kitchen (building just before steps start). This spot probably attracts other good birds too- maybe even Pittas. Also got Streaked Wren Babbler at the first shelter going up the steps and Bay Woodpecker perched atop a distant snag, calling in the morning. A great last day of birding in Thailand- can’t wait to go back!

1. Rufous-throated Partridge: 2 seen summit boardwalk DI.
2. Scaly-breasted Partridge: a few seen at Wang Jumpee trail KY and heard gulley trail CD.
3. Red Jungle Fowl: easy at KY
4. Green Peafowl: a few seen HHK
5. Lesser Whistling Duck: small flock seen MB and flock of 100 seen HHK
6. Little Grebe: several at MB
7. Grey-capped Pygmy Woodpecker: 2 with mixed flock near DYK substation, CD
8. Speckled Piculet: 2 seen gulley steps CD
9. Buff-rumped Woodpecker: 1 seen briefly with mixed flock B trail, KNC
10. Laced Woodpecker: 1 calling and seen upon arrival at Pha Kluay Mai campground KY
11. Black-headed Woodpecker: a few seen briefly at K13, DI
12. Greater Yellownape: a few seen with mixed flocks nature trail and DYK substation, CD
13. Common Flameback: pair seen KM
14. Greater Flameback: one seen visitor center KY
15. Bay Woodpecker: one seen calling on snag from temple parking area, CD
16. Rufous Woodpecker: one seen other campground KY
17. Great Barbet: seen a few times in tall trees from Mallees roof and near temple parking area CD
18. Green-eared Barbet: one seen fig tree KY
19. Moustached Barbet: several seen KY- most common barbet there.
20. Golden-throated Barbet: few seen past 2nd checkpoint DI- most common Barbet there.
21. Blue-throated Barbet: a few seen Malees roof CD- most common Barbet there.
22. Blue-eared Barbet: 1-2 seen fig tree KY
23. Red-throated Barbet: 1 seen, many heard KNC.
24. Coppersmith Barbet: seen L, and from Mallees roof CD
25. Great Hornbill: a few seen daily KY, pair visited PKM campground on two mornings.
26. Oriental Pied Hornbill: several seen daily KY
27. Wreathed Hornbill: pair seen watchtower KY
28. Red-headed Trogon: pair seen A and B trails KY and 37k track DI.
29. Brown-winged Kingfisher: several KM
30. Common Kingfisher: a few KM and KE
31. Blue-eared Kingfisher: 1 pond behind Morakot KNC
32. Banded Kingfisher: 1 KY
33. White-throated Kingfisher: a few near Morakot KNC
34. Black-capped Kingfisher: several KM
35. Collared Kingfisher: several KM and KE
36. Red-bearded Bee-eater: heard only KNC
37. Blue-bearded Bee-eater: 1 seen A trail KY
38. Blue-tailed Bee-eater: pair seen MB
39. Chestnut-headed Bee-eater: few seen A and B trails KY
40. Hodgson’s Hawk-Cuckoo: seen KY and HHK
41. Moustached Hawk-Cuckoo: seen twice and heard calling KNC
42. Greater Coucal: seen and heard MB, KNC, KY, KB, CD
43. Lesser Coucal: seen MB,KK and CD
44. Chestnut-winged Cuckoo: 1 seen KM
45. Plaintive Cuckoo: a few seen MB
46. Drongo Cuckoo: 1 seen with mixed flock KNC
47. Asian Koel: seen MB
48. Green-billed Malkoha: seen KNC, KY, k13 at DI, Mallees roof CD
49. Raffle’s Malkoha: 1 seen mixed flock KNC
50. Red-billed Malkoha: pair seen KNC
51. Coral-billed Ground Cuckoo: 2 seen daily restaurant stakeout KY
52. Indian Roller: MB, L, KNC, KY, DI, HHK, CD
53. Dollarbird: behind Morakot KNC, KM
54. Vernal Hanging Parrot: small flocks a few times KY
55. Himalayan Swiftlet: several Malees roof CD. Other unidentified Swiftlets seen most sites.
56. Asian Palm Swift: KM, probably other sites.
57. House Swift: MB,KM
58. Fork-tailed Swift: KY,DI,CD
59. Brown-backed Needletail: KY
60. Crested Treeswift: few seen K13 DI.
61. Gray-rumped Treeswift: several seen near Morakot KNC
62. Whiskered Treeswift: 2 seen KNC
63. Collared Scops Owl: heard most sites, briefly seen once Mr. Daeng’s
64. Mountain Scops Owl: heard KY,DI,CD
65. Collared Owlet: heard KY,DI,CD
66. Asian barred Owlet: seen HHK, Mallees roof CD, also heard DI and Chiang Mai.
67. Brown Hawk Owl: heard KY
68. Great eared Nightjar: heard and seen most dawns/evenings Morakot KNC and KY
69. Large-tailed Nightjar: heard and seen near Morakot, KNC
70. Ashy Wood Pigeon: 1 seen near summit DI
71. Rock Pigeon: many near habitations
72. Mountain Imperial Pigeon: several KY,CD
73. Spotted Dove: common Dove of countryside
74. Red-collared Dove: few seen along road between KY and Bangkok
75. Peaceful Dove: MB and L
76. Thick-billed Green Pigeon: a few fig tree KY
77. Pin-tailed Green Pigeon: 2 CD
78. Emerald Dove: 2 KY
79. Common Moorhen: a few MB
80. White-breasted Waterhen: a few MB and KK
81. White-browed Crake: at least a few MB
82. Watercock: two seen MB
83. Ruddy-breasted Crake: 1 MB
84. Bar-tailed Godwit: several KE
85. Whimbrel: many KE
86. Pheasant-tailed Jacana: flock of 20 MB
87. Bronze-winged Jacana: 2 MB
88. Common Redshank: several KE and KK
89. Marsh Sandpiper: many KK
90. Common Greenshank: many KE,KK
91. Wood Sandpiper: a few KK
92. Terek Sandpiper: many KE
93. Common Sandpiper: many KM, KE, KK
94. Spoon-billed Sandpiper: 1 KK
95. Red-necked Stint: many KK
96: Temminck’s Stint: many KK
97. Curlew Sandpiper: several KK
98. Black-winged Stilt: several KK
99. Little Ringed Plover: lots KK
100. Kentish Plover: lots KE, KK
101. Lesser sand Plover: lots KE, some KK
102. Greater Sand Plover: a few KE
103. Pacific Golden Plover: many KE, some KK
104. Gray (Black-bellied) Plover: some KE, KK
105. Gray-headed Lapwing: dozen MB
106. Red-Wattled Lapwing: pairs, MB, KK, KY
107. Brown-headed Gull: a few KK
108. Great Crested Tern: 1 KE
109. Little Tern: a few KE
110. Whiskered Tern: a few MB, KE, KK
111. White-winged Tern: one KK
112. Black Baza: few seen HHK
113. Oriental Honey Buzzard: singles Mr Daeng’s DI and Mallees roof CD
114. Brahminy Kite: several KE, KK
115. Shikra: 1 KY
116. Besra: 1KY
117. Crested Goshawk: singles displaying KNC, KY, CD
118. Rufous-winged Buzzard: 2 HHK, 1 K13 DI.
119. Crested Serpent Eagle: calling while soaring at KNC, KY, HHK, and CD
120. Rufous-bellied Eagle: 1 soaring over visitors center KY
121. Black-shouldered Kite: 1 seen from bus outside of Bangkok
122. Collared Falconet: 3 perched atop snags at K13 DI
123. Peregrine: 1 seen briefly CD
124. Eurasian Kestrel: 2 seen CD
125. Oriental Hobby: pair seen KM
126. Little Cormorant: several MB, some KK
127. Indian Cormorant: a few MB
128. Little Egret: many KM, KE
129. Chinese Egret: 1 seen well KE
130. Great Egret: a few KE
131. Intermediate Egret: 1 KE
132. Gray Heron: several in flight KK
133. Purple Heron: 2 in flight KK
134. Pond Heron species: common most places
135. Little Heron: KM
136. Yellow Bittern: several MB
137. Cinnamon Bittern: 1 MB
138. Asian Open-billed Stork: many just north and east of Bangkok
139. Blue Pitta: 1 seen while scanning gulley between checkpoint and Nuthatch site at CD
140. Silver-breasted Broadbill: a few seen along road up to and also after checkpoint CD
141. Long-tailed Broadbill: a few seen after checkpoint CD
142. Blue-winged Leafbird: many KY
143. Orange-fronted Leafbird: K13 DI and Mallees roof CD
144. Orange-bellied Leafbird: a few DYK CD
145. Asian Fairy Bluebird: several KY and CD- usually noisy and easy to see
146. Brown Shrike: seen most places and sometimes along roads
147. Gray-backed Shrike: across from Mr. Daeng’s and near S. waterfall DI and CD
148. Long-tailed Shrike: a few MB
149. Black Drongo: several MB, KK, along roadsides
150. Crow-billed Drongo: KM
151. Ashy Drongo: common and often with mixed flocks of small birds KNC, KY, DI, CD
152. Bronzed Drongo: common past checkpoint CD
153. Lesser Racket-tailed Drongo: mixed flock leader montane small birds DI and CD
154. Greater Racket-tailed Drongo: often with mixed flocks larger birds KM, KY, HHK, K13 DI, nature trail CD
155. Spangled Drongo: often in flocks flying over canopy KY, DI, CD
156. Large-billed Crow: pairs here and there most lowland sites
157. Eurasian Jay: several dry forest and pines HHK, DI,CD
158. Red-billed Blue Magpie: group seen briefly at dawn K13 DI
159. Green Magpie: usually seen with other large species K13 DI, CD
160. Black-naped Oriole: pretty common, looks like Woodpecker in flight- note disharmonious raspy call of this and other Orioles. L, KNC, KY, DI
161. Slender-billed Oriole: a few seen DYK CD
162. Black-hooded Oriole: fairly common K13 HHK, Mallees roof CD
163. Maroon Oriole: a few 37k track DI, more common temple steps, DYK and Mallees roof CD
164. Indochinese Cuckooshrike: few seen mixed flocks CD
165. Black-winged Cuckooshrike: fairly common mixed flocks KY, DI and CD- mostly uniform dark subspecies seen CD left me wondering at first.
166. Large Cuckooshrike: 2 at Blue Pitta gulley CD
167. Swinhoe’s Minivet: many with mixed flocks KY, HHK Note- most Minivets with mixed flocks
168. Ashy Minivet: large flock KM
169. Rosy Minivet: usually with mixed flocks KY, HHK, CD
170. Gray-chinned Minivet: fairly common DI and CD

171. Long-tailed Minivet: few seen 35k track DI
172. Short-billed Minivet: several seen montane forest DI, CD
173. Bar-winged Flycatcher Shrike: several mixed flocks KY, HHK, DI, CD
174. Yellow-bellied Fantail: few seen with mixed flocks montane forest DI
175. Pied Fantail: MB, KM, KK, L
176. White-throated Fantail: DI, CD
177. Common Iora: L, DI,CD
178. Great Iora: KNC, DI,CD
179. Black-naped Monarch: common with mixed flocks KNC, KY, HHK, DI, CD
180. Asian Paradise Flycatcher: common with mixed flocks KNC, KY
181. Chestnut-bellied Rock Thrush: few DYK CD
182. Blue Rock Thrush: KY, DI, CD
183. Blue Whistling Thrush: shy but common along streams many places KY, DI, CD
184. Orange-headed Thrush: restaurant stakeout and trail B KY
185. Gray-sided Thrush: 1 bird seen 37K track DI with large flock Thrushes all very shy.
186. Eye-browed Thrush: 1 scoped top of tree at 2nd checkpoint DI
187. Asian Brown Flycatcher: common most sites
188. Taiga Flycatcher: common at forest edge most sites
189. Slaty-backed Flycatcher: 1 start of trail DYK CD
190. Little Pied Flycatcher: several montane forest DI, few DYK CD
191. Hainan Blue Flycatcher: 1 male seen briefly HHK
192. Hill Blue Flycatcher: several trail B KY, common DI and CD
193. Tickell’s Blue Flycatcher: a few HHK
194. Blue-throated Flycatcher: 1 female seen K 13 DI
195. Verditer Flycatcher: often seen hawking from snags KY, DI
196. Pale-blue Flycatcher: 1 temple steps CD
197. Rufous-bellied Niltava: 1 seen Blue Pitta gulley
198. Gray-headed Canary Flycatcher: common with mixed flocks KY, DI, CD
199. Siberian Rubythroat: 1 spished out of tall, wet weedy veg. KY
200. Bluethroat: 1 flushed MB
201. Siberian Blue Robin: shy but common most forest sites- usually best seen while looking (waiting hopelessly) for Pittas or checking outflows from kitchens. KNC,KY,DI,CD
202. Oriental Magpie Robin: common bird of gardens, lawns, etc.
203. White-rumped Shama: a few seen KY, HHK, and most common around Malees CD
204. White-capped Water Redstart: 1 male at S. falls DI
205. Plumbeous Redstart: 1 female at S. Falls DI
206. White-crowned Forktail: B trail KY, and very good looks along Temple gulley trail CD
207. Slaty-backed Forktail: A trail and stream at Wang Jumpee KY
208. Common Stonechat: fairly common open country species most sites.
209. Pied Bushchat: a few seen across from Mr. Daeng’s and near S. falls DI
210. Gray Bushchat: pair seen at pond DYK CD
211. Ashy Woodswallow: thought these would be more common. Campgrounds and along roads in KY
212. Asian Pied Starling: several MB and few KK
213. Chestnut-tailed Starling: flock of 20 K13 DI
214. Common Myna: very common bird seen most sites around houses.
215. White-vented Myna: very common bird around people and deforested areas.
216. Golden-crested Myna: a few small flocks as flybys various spots KY
217. Chestnut-vented Nuthatch: a few seen near 2nd checkpoint along main road DI
218. Velvet-fronted Nuthatch: pretty common CD especially DYK
219. Giant Nuthatch: a few seen in area of large pines with snags along road between 2nd checkpoint and DYK, also pair in mixed flock DYK CD
220. Brown-throated Treecreeper: a few seen near 2nd checkpoint along main road DI
221. Great Tit: fairly common Mr. Daeng’s and campground DI and DYK CD
222. Yellow-cheeked Tit: pretty frequent around 2nd checkpoint DI
223. Barn Swallow: pretty common most sites
224. Pacific Swallow: common around Krabi wharf
225. Red-rumped Swallow: fairly common most sites
226. Striated Swallow: several near limestone crag KM
227. Black-headed Bulbul: a few KY, DI and CD
228. Black-crested Bulbul: very common most forested sites especially at KY
229. Red-whiskered Bulbul: only in cages in the south, common near watchtower KY and very common in north in gardens, and towns
230. Sooty-headed Bulbul: K13 DI and several Mallees CD
231. Puff-backed Bulbul: several along trails C and A KNC
232. Flavescent Bulbul: several montane areas DI and DYK CD
233. Stripe-throated Bulbul: common bird of secondary growth and edge KNC, KY, and CD
234. Yellow-vented Bulbul: few seen MB and few seen second growth Morakot
235. Olive-winged Bulbul: few seen second growth Morakot
236. Streak-eared Bulbul: few seen MB, second KY
237. Cream-vented Bulbul: pair seen second growth of trail C KNC
238. Spectacled Bulbul: pair seen Morakot
239. Gray-eyed Bulbul: several KY, a few temple steps CD
240. Puff-throated Bulbul: very common and noisy KY and CD
241. Ochraceous Bulbul: fairly common KNC
242. Ashy Bulbul: a few seen KY, DI and CD
243. Mountain Bulbul: common 2nd checkpoint DI
244. Black Bulbul: several flowering trees temple area and road to DYK CD
245. Bright-headed Cisticola: a few seen wet weedy areas KY
246. Striated Grassbird: several MB
247. Rufescent Prinia: several K13 DI, KY and CD
248. Plain Prinia: very common MB, watchtower area KY
249. Gray-breasted Prinia: several across street from Mr. Daeng’s KY
250. Yellow-bellied Prinia: several MB
251. Common Tailorbird: pretty common sp. of edge, gardens most sites
252. Mountain Tailorbird: pretty common 2nd checkpoint area DI and DYK CD
253. Dark-necked Tailorbird: pair forest edge along road near PKM campground KY
254. Ashy Tailorbird: few seen KM
255. Slaty-bellied Tesia: 1 hyperactive individual seen 37K track DI
256. Asian Stubtail: 1 seen temple gulley
257. Black-browed Reed Warbler: several MB
258. Russet Bush Warbler: very skulking, 1 seen along road near DYK CD
259. Pallas’ Grasshopper Warbler: a few seen MB
260. Thick-billed Warbler: individuals seen MB, KY, and Mallees CD
261. Oriental Reed Warbler: few seen MB

Phylloscopus Warblers: lots everywhere and very tough to ID because its often too difficult to get the looks you need at the bird in question: learn calls before trip! I have only listed those identified with some certainty; most went unidentified!

262. Radde’s Warbler: several seen KY, DI and CD
263. Arctic Warbler: several KNC and KM
264. Two-barred Warbler: several KNC, and KY
265. Pale-legged Leaf Warbler: few KNC, KY and K13 DI
266. Eastern Crowned Warbler: several KNC
267. Buff-barred Warbler: 1 seen near entrance to Gaew Mae Pan trail DI
268. Ashy-throated Warbler: pretty common past 2nd checkpoint DI
269. Yellow-browed Warbler: common most sites
270. Sulphur-breasted Warbler: few seen KY and 37K track DI in mixed flocks
271. Chestnut-flanked White-eye: several KY, around S falls, Mr. Daeng’s and 2nd checkpoint DI and CD
272. Oriental White-eye: 1 seen Malees CD
273. Japanese White-eye: several 2nd checkpoint DI
274. Gray-crowned Warbler: fairly common second growth Mr. Daeng’s and higher up DI, CD
275. Plain-tailed Warbler: a few KY
276. Chestnut-crowned Warbler: a few mixed flocks 2nd checkpoint area DI
277. Yellow-bellied Warbler: a few in bamboo A trail KNC and several temple steps CD
278. White-crested Laughingthrush: loud but somewhat shy in deciduous second growth along trail near reservoir KY, K13 DI and nature trail CD. Usually with other Laughingthrushes, other large birds
279. Greater Necklaced Laughingthrush: several with other large birds K13 DI
280. Lesser-necklaced Laughingthrush: several along trail near reservoir KY and nature trail CD
281. Black-throated Laughingthrush: few behind monk’s kitchen at base of temple steps CD
282. Chestnut-crowned Laughingthrush: several 2nd checkpoint and higher DI
283. Abbot’s Babbler: a few KNC and KY
284. Buff-breasted Babbler: a few temple gulley CD
285. Puff-throated Babbler: a few KNC, KY and CD
286. Large Scimitar Babbler: great looks of 1 called in with imitation of song along trail A in bamboo KY
287. Rusty-cheeked Scimitar Babbler: small group in mixed flock with other large birds in grassy/young bamboo understory along road to DYK CD
288. White-browed Scimitar Babbler: several in DYK area- foraging in pines with Eurasian Jays and other large birds in understory
289. Streaked Wren Babbler: pair seen 1st shelter temple gulley steps CD
290. Moustached Babbler: 1 seen mixed flock B trail KNC
291. Sooty-capped Babbler: couple in mixed flock B trail KNC
292. Striped Tit Babbler: common edge species most forested areas
293. Rufous-fronted Babbler: few in mixed flock B trail KNC, DYK area and temple steps CD
294. Golden Babbler: pair with mixed flock 37K track DI
295. Gray-throated Babbler: pair with mixed flock 37K track DI and nature trail gulley CD
296. Chestnut-winged Babbler: pair with mixed flock B trail KNC
297. Silver-eared Mesia: pairs with mixed flocks 2nd checkpoint area and across from Mr. Daeng’s DI
298. White-browed Shrike Babbler: common in mixed flocks both jeep tracks DI and DYK CD
299. Chestnut-fronted Shrike Babbler: 1 seen 34.5K track DI
300. Blue-winged Minla: with mixed flocks 2nd checkpoint area DI, DYK area CD
301. Chestnut-tailed Minla: summit area DI
302. Rufous-winged Fulvetta: summit area and 2nd checkpoint area DI, DYK CD
303. Brown-cheeked Fulvetta: several temple steps CD
304. Gray-cheeked Fulvetta: several 2nd checkpoint area, lots in mixed flocks 37k track DI, DYK CD
305. White-bellied Yuhina: lots in mixed flocks KY, 2nd checkpoint area DI
306. White-hooded Babbler: a few with with other large birds in grassy/bamboo understory along road near DYK and bamboo along gulley trail CD
307. Dark-backed Sibia: fairly common 2nd checkpoint area and higher DI
308. Rufous-backed Sibia: fairly common mixed flocks 2nd checkpoint and higher DI
309. Gray-headed Parrotbill: several with mixed flocks DYK area CD
310. Spectacled Barwing: a few in ravine near 2nd checkpoint DI
311. Yellow-breasted Flowerpecker: a few seen KNC
312. Crimson-breasted Flowerpecker: 1 male seen KNC
313. Yellow-vented Flowerpecker: a few in roadside trees KY, a few Malees roof CD
314. Yellow-bellied Flowerpecker: 1 nice male in fruiting tree near second market up road from Mr. Daeng’s DI
315. Orange-bellied Flowerpecker: common but inconspicuous (too small!) Morakot grounds
316. Plain Flowerpecker: a few seen K13 DI
317. Fire-breasted Flowerpecker: a few seen KY
318. Scarlet-backed Flowerpecker: common in gardens and edge most sites
319. Purple-naped Sunbird: a few KNC; each time calling and coming in to imitation of call
320. Red-throated Sunbird: common Morakot grounds
321. Ruby-cheeked Sunbird: common Morakot grounds, KY and Malees CD
322. Purple-throated Sunbird: seen a few times Morakot grounds
323. Olive-backed Sunbird: common gardens, edge at most sites.
324. Purple Sunbird: few seen Mallees CD
325. Crimson Sunbird: 1 seen Mallees CD
326. Mrs. Gould’s Sunbird: a few seen summit area DI
327. Green-tailed Sunbird: common above 2nd checkpoint DI
328. Black-throated Sunbird: a few KY and K13 DI
329. Little Spiderhunter: common most sites
330. Streaked Spiderhunter: a few 2nd checkpoint and higher DI, common templed steps and DYK road CD
331. Richard’s Pipit: a few MB
332. Paddyfield Pipit: a few MB
333. Olive-backed Pipit: a few near reservoir KY, along road from Mr. Daeng’s and higher DI, small flocks DYK area CD
334. White Wagtail: 1 flyby Mallees roof CD
335. Gray Wagtail: a few along streams in KY, DI
336. Yellow Wagtail: several KK
337. Eurasian Tree Sparrow: common in towns
338. Plain-backed Sparrow: several along road reservoir area and visitors center KY
339. Asian Golden Weaver: 1 female MB
340. Pin-tailed Parrotfinch: small groups feeding with (and outnumbered by) Munias in seeding bamboo KY and road to DYK CD
341. Scaly-breasted Munia: several MB, KY
342. White-rumped Munia: several KY, CD
343. Common Rosefinch: a few around Mr. Daeng’s and many campground DI
344. Chestnut Bunting: small flocks DYK CD