Visitors since 01/09/06

Suan Lumphini (Lumphini Park) is named after the birthplace of Buddha, and is one of the few sizeable areas of greenspace in Bangkok; used by many people in the mornings for jogging, tai chi and even karaoke.

The park is largely ornamental with mown grass, flower beds and various ponds, although there are a few areas where the grass is a little less cultivated and a number of ancient trees provide shade for visitors and a food source for birds. This is a good place to take an early morning stroll before spending the rest of the day sightseeing, shopping in Bangkok or lazing under a shady tree.

The migratory periods of September-October and April-May are likely to turn up the most interesting species in Lumphini Park; quite a surprising number of species have been recorded here, and of course this is where a large number of escaped cage birds end up, so be careful before ticking what you see here!

Lumphini Park is a good place to see some of Thailand's most common birds if you are on a quick visit to Bangkok and have no time to go further afield. A surprising number of species can be found here, especially during migratory periods. Oriental Magpie-Robins can be seen hopping around and singing from trees and Coppersmith Barbets can be seen at very close quarters; a moment taken to listen to their call soon reveals how they get their name.

Pied Fantail, Large-billed Crow, Common and White-vented Mynas, Streak-eared Bulbul and Peaceful (Zebra) Dove will be seen on any short walk around the park and if the more overgrown corners are explored then a number of Flycatchers and Leaf Warblers can be found at the right time of year.

One is spoilt for options in getting to Lumphini Park; it is possible to go by a multitude of buses, taxi, tuk-tuk, underground, skytrain, motorcycle taxi or, if your hotel is nearby, simply walk.

So many buses go to the Lumphini/Silom area that it is pointless for me to list them. For bus routes it is best to buy one of the many maps available from Asia Books that include them. These come with both Thai and English script and are very useful when asking for directions!

Area 1: A number of mature trees here have a dense canopy and seem to hold quite a few birds. Flowerpeckers and Sunbirds abound in these trees, and in the "winter" months various Leaf Warblers frequent them in search of insects.

Area 2: Along the "stream" here there are a number of trees which seem to be favourite calling posts for Coppersmith Barbets. These trees aren't too high or too dense, so that by approaching the calling bird carefully, very close views are available. Mynas seem to like the large area of grass in this region of the park, with Common and White-vented Mynas abundant and Black-collared Starling a frequent and very handsome resident.

Ponds 3: These ponds provide the best chance of seeing some water birds, with Little Egret and Javan Pond Heron usually present; try and separate these from Chinese Pond Herons in the dry season. In spring you may be lucky enough to see both of these species in breeding plumage and as Indian Pond Heron is increasingly seen in Thailand, it is worth checking for this species too. Common Sandpiper on migration is possible here and Blue-tailed Bee-eaters often perch in a nearby tree and feed over the ponds. Some less well kept areas of the park are around these ponds which might turn up some interesting migrants at the right time of year with Taiga (Red-throated) Flycatcher virtually guaranteed.
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One would assume that having made it to Lumphini Park accommodation will already have been arranged. If not there are many hotels of varying price and quality in the vicinity of Silom and Surawong roads: Bangkok Hotel Reservations. Equally, due to its close proximity to shopping areas, whatever facility that is required is only a short walk away. However, if the heat is draining your energy and refreshment is needed there are a few kiosks around the park selling drinks and snacks. Sometimes various vendors can be found in or near to the park, selling such treats as fruit, ice-cream and som-tam (spicy salad). In the afternoon/evenings you may even find fried insects being sold in the park area!!!!!

If the birding isn't what you hoped for, or you simply fancy a rest, there are a variety of boats for hire to take out onto the lake. I can't say what the cost is as I have never done it myself, but I can't imagine that it is very much. There is also a "muscle beach" type area in the park for those people that wish to combine their birdwatching with an early morning workout, and for those with a weak bladder there are public toilets around the park.

Skytrain

Bangkok and Khao Yai, 26-28th & 16th April 2005

Thailand Tour, 11-29th January 2007

by Catherine McFadden

by Patrick O'Donnell