Partridges & Pheasants of Kaeng Krachan National Park

Ground-dwelling forest birds are always hard to see throughout Southeast Asia and it is no different in Thailand. Galliformes, which include partridges, pheasants, peacock pheasants and junglefowl, can be hard to observe as they are not only frequently shy but have often been pushed close to extinction through habitat destruction and hunting. Indeed, the fact that these birds are so obviously a good source of food, not only to humans but also to forest predators, almost certainly goes a long way to explaining why they are shy birds that are hard to observe. However, it is also true that these species can become habituated to visiting areas in close proximity to humans when there is a food source present. The best example of this is the ancestor of domestic chickens, Red Junglefowl, which surely became habituated to feeding on scraps of food left by humans thousands, of years ago.

Kaeng Krachan national park, in Western Thailand, has long been famous among birders as a location where a variety of species in this group occur but apart from Red Junglefowl, most of the species in this fantastic area have been very hard to see. However, with the advent of a number of hides overlooking small, man-made waterholes where food is also supplied, a number of these birds have become far more frequently encountered by birders, although a couple of rare species are so seldom-seen they retain near mythical status.

While it is always thrilling to come across pheasants and partridges when birding in the forest, the hides around the edges of the park allow for some truly amazing views of these birds, making for some great photo opportunities and memories. The book Pheasants, Partridges and Grouse of the World deals with identifying and the ecology of these birds but on this page I will talk about which species can be seen in the vicinity of Kaeng Krachan national park and how often they are encountered.

Bar-backed Partridge Arborophila brunneopectus

When I first started birdwatching in Thailand Bar-backed Partridge was a bird that I very rarely saw. The most reliable location for finding this species was Nam Nao National Park where I frequently saw them on the loop trail at headquarters. The other location I sometimes saw this attractive bird was the higher parts of Kaeng Krachan National Park, particularly the area around kilometre 27 and sometimes behind the kitchen at Panoen Tung. However, these birds were always shy and it was hard to get a good view with photography more or less impossible and viewing them as part of a group of birders was extremely challenging. With observations being more or less restricted to those locations, in the vicinity of 700 metres and above, I associated this species with this type of altitude. It was a real surprise to me then when I learned that they were regularly coming to feed at Baan Song Nok, outside of the national park at low altitude.

Over the intervening years many birders have enjoyed watching and photographing this beautiful partridge at Baan Song Nok which remains more or less the most reliable spot for this species. However, inspired by the success of the feeding area at Baan Song Nok a number of other similar waterholes and hides have popped up around the edges of Kaeng Krachan, some of which attract Bar-backed Partridges on a fairly regular basis. Both Lung Sin waterhole and Daap 2 waterhole quite often attract this bird, particularly when conditions are dry, coming to drink from the water hole and frequently feeding on the food provided.

Of course Bar-backed Partridge is often heard calling from the forest before they are seen at the waterholes and far more frequently heard in the national park than the bird is seen; their song is really interesting. Listen to the call of Bar-backed Partridge.

Normally when they first approach the open areas in which all of these waterholes are situated, these partridges behave nervously and are skittish, scared off back into the undergrowth by sharp sounds or movements, but once they have emerged and have started feeding they become fairly oblivious to minor disturbances. Bar-backed Partridge is definitely one of the more attractive galliformes that can be seen in this area, in my opinion, and always a highlight of a session in one of the hides in the Kaeng Krachan area.

Green-legged (Scaly-breasted) Partridge Arborophila chloropus

For birders in Thailand if they have an encounter with a forest partridge then most commonly it will be with this species. Green-legged Partridge is fairly abundant in the two most visited national parks for birders within reach of Bangkok; Khao Yai and Kaeng Krachan. While this may be a widespread bird by its nature it is still a shy species, it is just that it is common enough that if birders spend long enough in the forest they will eventually happen upon one. However, seeing one in the undergrowth or getting a glimpse as it crosses a forest trail is oen thing but observing a pair of these intricately-plumaged bird as they strut around in the open at one of the hides near Kaeng Krachan is another thing indeed.

Green-legged Partridge used to be known as Scaly-breasted Partridge. Those who do the naming decided that the breast was not scaly or that the name confused this species with others but considering that they do not have green legs it seems to be just another confusing example of renaming of a bird. I am not sure what the point was. As with other species on this list this partridge is likely to be heard before it is seen and the song is an interesting duet. Listen to the call of Green-legged Partridge.

There are a growing number of hides at waterholes around Kaeng Krachan and most of them are visited by Green-legged Partridge on a fairly regular basis. They are most reliably seen in the driest times but I have also seen them coming for food in the wet season; they obviously become habituated to the food that is put out at the most frequently-watched waterholes; Lung Sin and Baan Song Nok. In the past there used to be a stakeout at Bang Krang campsite at kilometre 15 in the national park but this is no longer active due to layout changes there. These days the best chance of watching, photographing and filming this species is at one of the hides.

Ferruginous Partridge Caloperdix oculeus

Ferruginous Partridge is a scarce bird wherever it occurs and few people are lucky enough to see it when birding in the forest. I had been visiting Kaeng Krachan for some years without hearing of anyone seeing these birds when one day I was trying to see what was making a scratching sound on the forest floor when one stunning Ferruginous Partridge came out from where I could hear it and crossed the road just a few metres away from me. This sighting confused me for a little while as the bird was far more attractive with plumage much more intricate than the field guides indicated. Over the years I had a couple more, irregular, sightings of this amazing bird at various locations in the national park while the call can be heard from Kilometre 1 to kilometre 36. The song is quite similar to some of the other forest partridge but it becomes quite manic when they really get going. Listen to the call of Ferruginous Partridge.

Other than Kaeng Krachan I have heard of sightings of this species many years ago in Southern Thailand, in areas where the habitat no longer remains, and also in patches of moist forest in Kanchanaburi province. Many Thai birders got very excited some years ago when a pair of Ferruginous Partridges began feeding at a stakeout deep in the forest. However, Ferruginous Partridge remained a bird that most visiting birders had very little chance of seeing until the establishment of Neung waterhole, on the forest edge, where one or two birds have become semi-regular in dry periods. Like many of the ground-dwellers on this page Ferruginous Partridges often lurk around in the forest close to the waterhole checking it out to ensure it is safe to come and feed. I have sat and waited for this species a few times and seen it in the background only to see it scared off by noise in the hides or by a noisy group of monkeys passing through. For those who have been lucky enough to see this fantastic bird here their emergence from the forest has made the long, sweaty wait worth it. This is one of those birds that is far brighter and visually impressive than most field guides imply.

Grey Peacock Pheasant Polyplectron bicalcaratum


The garrulous laughingthrushes bouncing back and forth, the gem-like male Black-naped Monarch dive-bombing the water, squabbling bulbuls and iridescent Racket-tailed Treepie all take your mind off of the fact that it is hot and humid in the hide and that the chairs are not exactly designed for sitting upon for long periods of time. Having enjoyed the myriad of small birds that attend the waterholes and seen them coming back again and again one might be tempted to call it a day and go back to the accommodation for a shower and some refreshment. However, if you wait quietly and allow the commoner birds to become comfortable out in the open you might be treated to the secretive Grey Peacock Pheasant slowly emerging from the surrounding forest. This is a distinct possibility at one or two of the hides in the area in dry periods that force them to visit the waterhole to drink.

This has been a feature of the driest periods over the last few years but before that seeing a Grey Peacock Pheasant relied a lot more on good fortune. This is one of those birds which is not particularly rare but it is shy and hard to observe. For birders walking along the road through the national park both the harsh call and rapid angry chicken-like clucking can quickly become familiar but stalking one down is extremely hard and they rarely come out into the open to respond to call playback. Listen to the call of Grey Peacock Pheasant.

Over the years quite a few birders have got lucky seeing Grey Peacock Pheasant as it crosses the road in the upper reaches of the national park, particularly when the males are displaying to females in the early breeding season. From my experience if there has been an afternoon rain shower this species can sometimes be seen drying out in the middle of the road along with Red Junglefowl or Kalij Pheasant. Conversely, if it has been very dry then it can be worth waiting near puddles in dried up stream beds to see if you get lucky.

The other location in Thailand where there are frequent sightings of Grey Peacock Pheasant is Mae Wong National Park. Here there is also a stakeout where rangers have provided food and these strange birds have become habituated. Elsewhere I have heard the call of this bird at Doi Lang and others have heard it at a few other spots in Northern Thailand, but it does not seem to be as common as it is at Kaeng Krachan anywhere else.

Red Junglefowl Gallus gallus


There have been occasions when I have been sitting in a hide near Kaeng Krachan and few birds have arrived with the exception of Red Junglefowl. In fact this is true to the point that at times it has felt like sitting and watching a chicken farm but one look at the most handsome males should make birders realize that this species is far more than that. In fact if we were not so familiar with domestic chickens the male Junglefowl would be a very sought-after bird and perhaps even a highlight of a birding trip in Thailand. In fact more than one birder who has accompanied me to Kaeng Krachan has rated Red Junglefowl in their top sightings.

Many birders get a kick out of hearing Red Junglefowl calling in the forest in the morning. Of course it sounds just like a male chicken crowing in the morning, you can listen to it here - Red Junglefowl call.

Red Junglefowl is seen at more or less all of the hides around Kaeng Krachan National Park, sometimes in large groups, but it is the mature males that are the most fantastic. This species is often seen in the national park too when driving along the road and is also frequently seen at Khao Yai National Park, Doi Lang East, Mae Wong National Park and several other sites. If you are staying at Baan Maka Nature Lodge then you will probably see them from the restaurant as you eat breakfast or lunch.

Kalij Pheasant Lophura leucomelanos


"What a bird, and the female is not too shabby either" is a common response from birders when they first see this handsome pheasant. Indeed, when the male begins to approach from the dark forest it can often be seen through the leafy foliage, its silvery plumage making it easier to spot than the female. Similarly to Grey Peacock Pheasant before the advent of the hides around the national park this species was most regularly seen along the upper reaches of the road through Kaeng Krachan, sometimes offering opportunities to photograph it but now many birders are able to get the best of views and superb photos at many of the hides. This species is regular at the popular Lung Sin waterhole, Baan Song Nok, Daap Waterhole, Neung waterhole and even in the grounds of Baan Maka Nature Resort.

Kalij Pheasant does not seem to make any sound that could be described as a call, the only sound I have ever heard from it is a low but constant clucking as they feed in pairs. My guess is that this is a contact call that they make to reassure each other that everything is safe.

Birders who are familiar with Kalij Pheasant from Nepal and India will note that this bird looks very different to the individuals that occur there. The taxonomy of the birds in Thailand have been under discussion over the years with this taxon, crawfurdi, being considered a subspecies of Silver Pheasant in some field guides. However, the most recent lists and field guides deal with this and lineata as Kalij Pheasant; it is my understanding that the genetics of these Thai birds are closer to that of Kalij Pheasant than Silver Pheasant. I think the phrase "closer to" may indicate that in the future the taxonomy of these birds could come under further scrutiny.

Kalij Pheasant is also quite frequently seen along the lower and mid stretches of the road through Mae Wong National Park.

Crested Partridge Rollulus rouloul
This incredible bird has been recorded at Kaeng Krachan but I am not aware of any sightings in recent years. I heard the call of this species on one occasion in about 2009 but never again. There are a few sightings of Crested Partridge from a couple of sites in Southern Thailand over the last ten years but nowhere has it been seen on more than one occasion. I have seen this wonderful partridge at Way Kambas National Park in southern Sumatra, Indonesia, but if one should start to visit any of the hides near Kaeng Krachan then you can guarantee that there will be a long queue of photographers wanting to visit.

Long-billed Partridge Rhizothera longirostris
This is a rare bird wherever it occurs and has more or less mythical status in Thailand. Roughly ten years ago there was a conceivable tentative report of one at dusk near one of the large water holes along the road at Kilometre 9 in Kaeng Krachan National Park by an experienced birder who understood how rare this bird is. The reporter was not 100% certain but it was really only the rarity of the bird that gave him any doubts.

I stumbled across a galliforme at Bala Wildlife Sanctuary on the border with Malaysia, in 2012 that may have been Long-billed Partridge. I was very close to the bird, however it ran away quickly but the size, shape and colour were all right for Long-billed Partridge. I am not certain but these are the only two possible sightings that I am aware of in the last twenty years. If Long-billed Partridge were to come to feed at any of the Kaeng Krachan hides there will be a stampede of birders.

Accommodation at Kaeng Krachan
For birders who want to see these and/or photograph these birds for themselves, and a lot more besides, Baan Maka Nature Lodge is a great place to stay. Not only do they have some of these birds visiting the grounds they also keep logs of what has been seen by their guests at the hides that they visit. Staff at Baan Maka speak English and will deal with making reservations for any of the hides/waterholes that you might want to visit.

Samarn Bird Camp and Khum Nang Phaya are other options for accommodation and both have their own hides that they run and can also help birders arrange visits to the other hides around the area.

Learn More

For birders that want to know more about the ecology and distribution of the birds dealt with on this page then the book Pheasants, Partridges and Grouse by Madge & McGowan is one of those excellent volumes that summarizes the collective knowledge into one place. As the title suggests it deals with all of the Pheasants, Partridges and Grouse of the world. It also includes Quail, Guineafowl, Buttonquail and Sandgrouse, over 250 species and all subspecies within the group. In these books I always enjoy studying the species accounts, learning about the birds but most of all I love looking at the range maps and thinking about where to go to see as many of them as possible.

If you have any of the other titles in this series then this is a good addition to your collection, dealing with some of the world's most flamboyant birds.

Email me at nickupton@thaibirding.com

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